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Objects to show off

Article  /  Debates
Published: 13.05.2008
Objects to show off.
Author:
text Micolau
Edited by:
b-guided#22
Edited at:
Barcelona

Intro
(...)
What makes the work of these artists valid? Their concept of jewellery as an artistic language, and the transformation of its discourse.
(...)
They say diamonds are forever. A pull-ring off one of those old soft drinks cans, like José Luis gives Silvia in Jamón Jamón, could also be forever. And come to think of it even an elastic band or a piece of pig's intestine (true: Maria Phillips' necklaces). Unconventional materials for the traditional idea of jewellery, made with art and crafted by the modern 'goldsmith' into unique pieces, endowed with a special meaning whether given or received. Because jewels, like other luxury design objects make good presents -for others and oneself. The following article by contemporary jewellery experts prefaces a selection of pieces that caught our eye (something any piece of jewellery aims to do). An unnoticed jewel is self-defeating lacking that essential something that makes it -and its wearer- shine.

Silvia Micolau



Jewel. Joy, Joia, Happiness. Treasure. Amulet. Protection, Talisman.
Shine. Give light. Illuminate. Show. Communicate. Seduce.

Jewels are creation. Jewellery has also evolved in contemporary art. There are great creators such as Joaquim Capdevila, Xavier Domènech, Ramón Puig, Herman Jünger, Otto Künzli, Giampaolo Babetto... who have been practicing for half a century, and, more importantly, great potential in young artists with interesting, quality work. To keep this short, let's just say that this area of creativity is in good health. And there are certainly brilliant pieces around, just like in any other discipline. We define art jewellery as pieces whose concept is more important than the material they are made from, but this doesn't mean any piece made in alternative materials is art or that those made in conventional ones aren't. Jewellery must evolve with the times, meet new demands, represent the citizens of its time, but without forgetting the value of history.
The role of galleries and shops is to promote it and make this kind of jewellery known to the public, who largely know nothing about it, and fundamentally to create a market, searching for a public who don't feel represented by, or don't identify with what they see in most jewellery shops. Galleries must take risks, support new talent as well as finding new buyers. The big names in the jewellery sector either work with the conventional idea of a piece (based on designs that have been used for over 100 years) or follow trends they establish yearly. This leads to uniformity -everywhere you go you come across the same kind of thing. As is true in other areas, creativity is wasted... with no investment, creativity becomes marginal. Klimt02, our virtual contemporary art jewellery magazine, is about jewellery as we understand it. We focus on pieces that are works of art.
Jewellery is art, whether it can be worn or not, and that's what we intend to illustrate as well as giving as much information as possible about our passion. Information makes you free; you can't buy or value what you know nothing about, and it allows you to grow, because you suddenly feel the responsibility of having to decide.
Basically, a shiny object, a jewel, has a social and communicative function from both the user and creator's points of view.
Out of the artists who are currently developing a work to be shown in klimt02, we've catalogued about 250 from all over the world. There are different languages in every country and there are artists in all of them producing interesting work.
From Spain, we would highlight the work of Marc Monzó, Tensi Solsona, Kepa Karmona, Itxaso Mezzacasa or Gemma Draper, to name just a few. From outside, Tore Svensson, Suska Mackert, Dinie Besems, Mah Rana, Ted Noten, Christoph Zellweger…

What makes the work of these artists valid? Their concept of jewellery as an artistic language, and the transformation of its discourse. The best jewel to shine with is idea synthesised through matter.

Amador Bertomeu and Leo Caballero.
Directors of Klimt02_Contemporary art jewellery.

Remarks

Objetos para lucir

Dicen que un diamante es para siempre. Una anilla con lengüeta, arrancada de una lata de refresco de las de antes, como la que le entrega José Luis a Silvia en Jamón Jamón, también. Y si me apuran, una goma elástica, y el intestino de cerdo (verídico: los colgantes de Maria Phillips). Materiales nada convencionales en lo que hemos entendido tradicionalmente como joyería, convertidos, por obra y gracia del moderno 'orfebre', en piezas únicas, con un significado muy especial para quien las regala y para quien las recibe. Porque las joyas, en tanto que objetos de diseño no imprescindibles, suelen regalarse. A otro o a uno mismo. Precedida por la opinión de buenos conocedores del panorama de la joyería contemporánea, sigue una selección de piezas que nos han llamado la atención, algo a lo que toda joya aspira. Y es que una joya discreta es en esencia incompleta: carece del elemento que la hace -y hace a quien la lleva- lucir.

Silvia Micolau


Joya. Joy, Joia, Alegría. Alhaja. Amuleto. Protección, Talismán.
Lucir. Dar luz. Iluminar. Mostrar. Comunicar. Seducir.

Joya es creación. Dentro del arte contemporáneo, la joyería también ha experimentado una evolución. Existen grandes creadores, como Joaquim Capdevila, Xavier Domènech, Ramón Puig, Herman Jünger, Otto Künzli, Giampaolo Babetto… dedicados a ella desde mediados de siglo y, lo más importante, un gran potencial de artistas jóvenes que llevan a cabo un trabajo de gran calidad e interés. Para ser breves, diríamos que la creación goza de muy buena salud. Y que encontramos ciertas obras de (alto) nivel, similar al que se observa en cualquier otro tipo de arte.
Definimos joya de arte como aquella pieza donde el concepto es más importante que el material, pero eso no quiere decir que todas aquellas piezas que se realicen con materiales alternativos sean arte ni que las que estén hechas con materiales convencionales no lo sean.
La joya debe evolucionar con su tiempo, cubrir las nuevas demandas, representar al nuevo ciudadano, pero evidentemente sin restar valor ni olvidar la historia. El papel de las galerías y las tiendas es el de dar a conocer y promocionar este tipo de joyería, ahora todavía ignorada por el gran público y, como línea de acción fundamental, crear un mercado, buscar a aquella persona que no se siente representada o identificada con lo que se exhibe en la mayoría de las joyerías. Las galerías deben arriesgar y apostar por nuevos talentos y encontrar nuevos compradores. Las grandes firmas del sector de la joyería, o bien trabajan en un tipo de pieza convencional (basadas en diseños de hace 100 años) o bien se mueven por las tendencias que ellos mismos deciden año tras año. Esto nos lleva a la uniformidad, vayas donde vayas siempre te tropiezas con lo mismo. Como en otros ámbitos hay un desperdicio de lo creativo... Sin inversión la creación es marginal. Klimt02, nuestra revista virtual de joyería de arte contemporáneo, trata de lo que entendemos por joyería. Nos interesan las piezas que son obras de arte. La joyería es arte, llevable o no, y eso es lo que pretendemos mostrar. Dar el máximo de información acerca de aquéllo que nos apasiona.
La información te hace libre; no puedes comprar ni valorar ni disfrutar lo que no conoces, y te hace crecer, porque de repente sientes la responsabilidad de decidir.
Básicamente un objeto para lucir, una joya, cumple una función socializadora y de comunicación desde el punto de vista del usuario y del creador.
De artistas que en este momento desarrollen una obra destacable en klimt02 hemos catalogado a unos 250 de todo el mundo. En cada país existe un lenguaje diferente y en cada país existen artistas que hacen una obra interesante.
Del estado español podríamos destacar la obra de Marc Monzó, Tensi Solsona, Kepa Karmona, Itxaso Mezzacasa o Gemma Draper, por citar algunos.
De fuera, Tore Svensson, Suska Mackert, Dinie Besems, Mah Rana, Ted Noten, Christoph Zellweger…

¿Qué hace de la obra de estos artistas algo válido? Su concepción de la joya como lenguaje artístico, y la transformación de su discurso.
La mejor joya para lucir es la idea sintetizada en la materia.

Amador Bertomeu y Leo Caballero.
Directores de Klimt02_Contemporary art jewellery.
Florian Ladstätter. : Untitled. Florian, LadstätterAustrian designer. . The piece shown in the image is an example . of his attempt to take the solemnity out of jewellery. . Information on stockists at www.joyellery.deAustrian designer. . The piece shown in the image is an example . of his attempt to take the solemnity out of jewellery. . Information on stockists at www.joyellery.de. Florian Ladstätter
: Untitled


Florian, Ladstätter
Austrian designer.

The piece shown in the image is an example

of his attempt to take the solemnity out of jewellery.

Information on stockists at www.joyellery.de
Austrian designer.
The piece shown in the image is an example
of his attempt to take the solemnity out of jewellery.
Information on stockists at www.joyellery.de
© By the author. Read Klimt02.net Copyright.
Peter Bauhuis. : Fusell. Gold/silver pins that look like specks of dust on clothes.. Someone will always want to flick them off. . Sold at Forvm Ferlandina (Barcelona).. Peter Bauhuis
: Fusell
Gold/silver pins that look like specks of dust on clothes.
Someone will always want to flick them off.
Sold at Forvm Ferlandina (Barcelona).
© By the author. Read Klimt02.net Copyright.
Karl Fritsch. : Untitled. Unpolished gold ring that looks like twisted aluminium foil. . Sold at Hipòtesi (Barcelona).. Karl Fritsch
: Untitled
Unpolished gold ring that looks like twisted aluminium foil.
Sold at Hipòtesi (Barcelona).
© By the author. Read Klimt02.net Copyright.
Luciana. : Untitled. Miina, KarskeNecklace and bracelet from the Virginie collection. . Brastraps, normally a hidden item, are visible in her creations. . She was chosen to represent the best of young Finnish design in the. Helsinki Young Forum last summer. . Sold at Última Parada (Barcelona)Leveratto is professor of typography.. Her necklace is actually a knotted t-shirt, a fabric sculpture,. buttoned up with silver fasteners and old buttons. . Sold at Carmina Rotger (Barcelona).. Luciana
: Untitled

Miina, Karske
Necklace and bracelet from the Virginie collection.

Brastraps, normally a hidden item, are visible in her creations.

She was chosen to represent the best of young Finnish design in the

Helsinki Young Forum last summer.

Sold at Última Parada (Barcelona)
Leveratto is professor of typography.
Her necklace is actually a knotted t-shirt, a fabric sculpture,
buttoned up with silver fasteners and old buttons.
Sold at Carmina Rotger (Barcelona).
© By the author. Read Klimt02.net Copyright.
Helena Rohner. : Untitled. Ånima,Silver skull cuff links from their first collection . of jewellery for men. . Sold at their shop in Barcelona.Necklace from her A/W collection, 04-05. . Shows this woman from the Canary Islands' revision of . traditional crochet techniques. Using fine, . resistant thread that delicately shapes itself to the body. . F I PH: Antón Goiri. Helena Rohner
: Untitled

Ånima,
Silver skull cuff links from their first collection

of jewellery for men.

Sold at their shop in Barcelona.
Necklace from her A/W collection, 04-05.
Shows this woman from the Canary Islands' revision of
traditional crochet techniques. Using fine,
resistant thread that delicately shapes itself to the body.
F I PH: Antón Goiri
© By the author. Read Klimt02.net Copyright.
Xavier Claramunt. : Untitled. TubPlastic for Duch Claramunt (www.duchclaramunt.com). . The architect, engineer, interior and industrial designer's pieces. are on sale, for example, at Tiffany's (New York).. Xavier Claramunt
: Untitled
TubPlastic for Duch Claramunt (www.duchclaramunt.com).
The architect, engineer, interior and industrial designer's pieces
are on sale, for example, at Tiffany's (New York).
© By the author. Read Klimt02.net Copyright.
Marc Newson. : Untitled. Chi Ha Paura...?                                                                                                                                                                                                                    Silver Orgone bracelet by M. Marc Newson
: Untitled
Chi Ha Paura...? Silver Orgone bracelet by M
© By the author. Read Klimt02.net Copyright.
Marcel Wanders. : Untitled. Chi Ha Paura...? . Nose necklace in silver by Marcel Wanders, . silver Headphone by Konstantin Grcic, polyamide . Not Made by Hand bracelet by Ron Arad,. for another quality designer, Gijs Bakker's jewellery shop. . On sale at www.chihapaura.com. Marcel Wanders
: Untitled
Chi Ha Paura...?
Nose necklace in silver by Marcel Wanders,
silver Headphone by Konstantin Grcic, polyamide
Not Made by Hand bracelet by Ron Arad,
for another quality designer, Gijs Bakker's jewellery shop.
On sale at www.chihapaura.com
© By the author. Read Klimt02.net Copyright.
Lisa Walker. : Untitled. Milena,TrujilloSmall human figures that live in the corners of our everyday spaces, . used for private refuge, exhibitionism or fleeting transit. . Sold at Moska, Amaranto, Montcada Taller and . her workshop in Poble Espanyol (Barcelona).Brooch in semi-precious stones on paper with a silver base. . The stones were bought at the Munich Mineral Trade Fair, . an event visited by all local jewellers. . Sold at Hipòtesi (Barcelona).. Lisa Walker
: Untitled

Milena,Trujillo
Small human figures that live in the corners of our everyday spaces,

used for private refuge, exhibitionism or fleeting transit.

Sold at Moska, Amaranto, Montcada Taller and

her workshop in Poble Espanyol (Barcelona).
Brooch in semi-precious stones on paper with a silver base.
The stones were bought at the Munich Mineral Trade Fair,
an event visited by all local jewellers.
Sold at Hipòtesi (Barcelona).
© By the author. Read Klimt02.net Copyright.
Sissi Cecilia. : Untitled. Takes part of the travelling jewellery exhibition. that was shown at the FAD, Barcelona.. Her piece reflects a new concept of jewellery in this country, . based on investigation and experimenting . with new materials for expressive purposes.. Sissi Cecilia
: Untitled
Takes part of the travelling jewellery exhibition
that was shown at the FAD, Barcelona.
Her piece reflects a new concept of jewellery in this country,
based on investigation and experimenting
with new materials for expressive purposes.
© By the author. Read Klimt02.net Copyright.
Benedetta Tagliabue. : Untitled. San Lorenzo. . Rambla, by Benedetta Tagliabue, . makes up 12 Monili d'Argento, a project that the Milan company. San Lorenzo, considered one of the most prestigious. in silver manufacturing (they only work with pure silver 925 and 999) commissioned 12 designe. Benedetta Tagliabue
: Untitled
San Lorenzo.
Rambla, by Benedetta Tagliabue,
makes up 12 Monili d'Argento, a project that the Milan company
San Lorenzo, considered one of the most prestigious
in silver manufacturing (they only work with pure silver 925 and 999) commissioned 12 designe
© By the author. Read Klimt02.net Copyright.
Walter Chen. : Untitled. Chus,BurésCubo rings in yellow 18-karat gold, white gold, . silver and diamonds.. From the Rejas collection. . Sold at his shop in Madrid.Absolute winner of the last edition of the. Enjoia't prize awarded by Orfebres FAD, he came first . and won the prize of the public. . This jeweller from Taiwan who works from Barcelona . has used bamboo to create this bracelet . that is the repetition of a mo. Walter Chen
: Untitled

Chus,Burés
Cubo rings in yellow 18-karat gold, white gold,

silver and diamonds.

From the Rejas collection.

Sold at his shop in Madrid.
Absolute winner of the last edition of the
Enjoia't prize awarded by Orfebres FAD, he came first
and won the prize of the public.
This jeweller from Taiwan who works from Barcelona
has used bamboo to create this bracelet
that is the repetition of a mo
© By the author. Read Klimt02.net Copyright.
Sophie Lévy. : Untitled. Enric,MajoralCertified gold ring with mohair knot, from the Cascalls line of jewellery. . Sold at their shops and at Galería Alea (Barcelona).. F I PH: Jordi SarràLes Bijoux de Sophie.. Nobody can remain indifferent to pieces by the. French designer Sophie Lévy. They are peculiar chic. . Sold at Linda Vuela a Río (Valencia).. Sophie Lévy
: Untitled

Enric,Majoral
Certified gold ring with mohair knot, from the Cascalls line of jewellery.

Sold at their shops and at Galería Alea (Barcelona).

F I PH: Jordi Sarrà
Les Bijoux de Sophie.
Nobody can remain indifferent to pieces by the
French designer Sophie Lévy. They are peculiar chic.
Sold at Linda Vuela a Río (Valencia).
© By the author. Read Klimt02.net Copyright.
Frank Tjepkema. : Untitled. This Dutch, multi-disciplinary designer is the author of Bling Bling,. which won the Dutch Design Awards 2004. . This stainless steel, gold-plated necklace is a tangled web . of famous names made by photo-etching.. On sale at www.tjepkema.com. Frank Tjepkema
: Untitled
This Dutch, multi-disciplinary designer is the author of Bling Bling,
which won the Dutch Design Awards 2004.
This stainless steel, gold-plated necklace is a tangled web
of famous names made by photo-etching.
On sale at www.tjepkema.com
© By the author. Read Klimt02.net Copyright.
Kalales&González. : Calalitas. Ceramic bead necklace. The irregularity and colour . of the beads makes them look like balls of bread.. Sold at Shop_Suey (Valencia).. Kalales&González
: Calalitas
Ceramic bead necklace. The irregularity and colour
of the beads makes them look like balls of bread.
Sold at Shop_Suey (Valencia).
© By the author. Read Klimt02.net Copyright.
Sílvia and David. : Canicas y bolos. Graphic costume jewellery by . Sílvia and David Armengol.. Photographic images of everyday . scenes on personal ornaments.. Sold at Chili (Barcelona), Mott and Popland (Madrid),. and Ah (Bilbao).. Sílvia and David
: Canicas y bolos
Graphic costume jewellery by
Sílvia and David Armengol.
Photographic images of everyday
scenes on personal ornaments.
Sold at Chili (Barcelona), Mott and Popland (Madrid),
and Ah (Bilbao).
© By the author. Read Klimt02.net Copyright.
Maribel Querol. : Untitled. Gold ring with amethyst tension mounting. . Sold at Tas (Barcelona).. Maribel Querol
: Untitled
Gold ring with amethyst tension mounting.
Sold at Tas (Barcelona).
© By the author. Read Klimt02.net Copyright.
Mah Rana. : Untitled. The Pearl and the Wisdom is part of the series . Jewellery is Life, on the importance of jewellery in society:. you decide to wear jewellery or not, own it or give it to others. . The biscuit comes wrapped in an envelope. on which ‘Good Fortune’ is written in. Mah Rana
: Untitled
The Pearl and the Wisdom is part of the series
Jewellery is Life, on the importance of jewellery in society:
you decide to wear jewellery or not, own it or give it to others.
The biscuit comes wrapped in an envelope
on which ‘Good Fortune’ is written in
© By the author. Read Klimt02.net Copyright.
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