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Lena Grabher

Jeweller
Published: 29.11.2017

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  New Klimt02 Member  

Vienna based contemporary jeweler has developed an experimental way of working and combines traditional techniques with digital fabrication processes.
Lena Grabher Lena Grabher
Lena Grabher. Brooch: Hybrid 1, 2017. Aluminum, silver, steel.. 20 x 8 x 2.5 cm. Photo by: Lukas Gaechter. From series: Hybird. Lena Grabher
Brooch: Hybrid 1, 2017
Aluminum, silver, steel.
20 x 8 x 2.5 cm
Photo by: Lukas Gaechter
From series: Hybird
© By the author. Read Klimt02.net Copyright.
Lena Grabher. Brooch: Hybrid 2, 2017. Aluminum, silver, steel.. 10 x 5 x 2.5 cm. Photo by: Lukas Gaechter. From series: Hybird. Lena Grabher
Brooch: Hybrid 2, 2017
Aluminum, silver, steel.
10 x 5 x 2.5 cm
Photo by: Lukas Gaechter
From series: Hybird
© By the author. Read Klimt02.net Copyright.
Lena Grabher. Necklace: Hybrid 7, 2017. Aluminum, silver.. 30 x 20 x 5 cm. Photo by: Lukas Gaechter. From series: Hybrid. Lena Grabher
Necklace: Hybrid 7, 2017
Aluminum, silver.
30 x 20 x 5 cm
Photo by: Lukas Gaechter
From series: Hybrid
© By the author. Read Klimt02.net Copyright.
Lena Grabher. Neckpiece: Diplopia 3, 2015. Elasto-plastic, magnets, silicone, polyester, acrylic mirror, steel. Photo by: Lukas Gaechter. Lena Grabher
Neckpiece: Diplopia 3, 2015
Elasto-plastic, magnets, silicone, polyester, acrylic mirror, steel
Photo by: Lukas Gaechter
© By the author. Read Klimt02.net Copyright.
Lena Grabher. Bracelet: DIPLOPIA 9, 2016. Plastic (strong and flexible), acrylic mirror, magnets.. 11 x 9.5 x 4 cm. Photo by: Lukas Gaechter. From series: DIPLOPIA. Lena Grabher
Bracelet: DIPLOPIA 9, 2016
Plastic (strong and flexible), acrylic mirror, magnets.
11 x 9.5 x 4 cm
Photo by: Lukas Gaechter
From series: DIPLOPIA
© By the author. Read Klimt02.net Copyright.
Lena Grabher. Bracelet: DIPLOPIA 11, 2016. 3D printed elasto-plastic, glass, monofilament.. 16 x 13 x 13 cm. Photo by: Lukas Gaechter. Lena Grabher
Bracelet: DIPLOPIA 11, 2016
3D printed elasto-plastic, glass, monofilament.
16 x 13 x 13 cm
Photo by: Lukas Gaechter
© By the author. Read Klimt02.net Copyright.
Lena Grabher. Necklace: DIPLOPIA 15, 2015. 3D printed elasto-plastic, glass, monofilament, silver.. 40 x 35 x 5 cm. Photo by: Lukas Gaechter. From series: DIPLOPIA. Lena Grabher
Necklace: DIPLOPIA 15, 2015
3D printed elasto-plastic, glass, monofilament, silver.
40 x 35 x 5 cm
Photo by: Lukas Gaechter
From series: DIPLOPIA
© By the author. Read Klimt02.net Copyright.
Lena Grabher. Body piece: DIPLOPIA 2, 2015. Fresnel foil, silver, steel.. 65 x 40 x 30 cm. Photo by: Lukas Gaechter. From series: DIPLOPIA. Lena Grabher
Body piece: DIPLOPIA 2, 2015
Fresnel foil, silver, steel.
65 x 40 x 30 cm
Photo by: Lukas Gaechter
From series: DIPLOPIA
© By the author. Read Klimt02.net Copyright.
Lena Grabher. Body piece: DIPLOPIA 2, 2015. Fresnel foil, silver, steel.. 65 x 40 x 30 cm. Photo by: Lukas Gaechter. From series: DIPLOPIA. Detail view.. Lena Grabher
Body piece: DIPLOPIA 2, 2015
Fresnel foil, silver, steel.
65 x 40 x 30 cm
Photo by: Lukas Gaechter
From series: DIPLOPIA

Detail view.

© By the author. Read Klimt02.net Copyright.
Lena Grabher. Piece: DIPLOPIA 4 and Untitled, 2015. Steel, glass, silver.. Shoulder piece: 15 x 74 x 20 cm. Photo by: Lukas Gaechter. From series: DIPLOPIA. Lena Grabher
Piece: DIPLOPIA 4 and Untitled, 2015
Steel, glass, silver.
Shoulder piece: 15 x 74 x 20 cm
Photo by: Lukas Gaechter
From series: DIPLOPIA
© By the author. Read Klimt02.net Copyright.
Lena Grabher. Brooch: DIPLOPIA 12, 2017. Elasto-plastic, glass, mica, silver, rosegold plated brass, steel.. 7 x 5 x 5 cm. Photo by: Lukas Gaechter. From series: DIPLOPIA. Lena Grabher
Brooch: DIPLOPIA 12, 2017
Elasto-plastic, glass, mica, silver, rosegold plated brass, steel.
7 x 5 x 5 cm
Photo by: Lukas Gaechter
From series: DIPLOPIA
© By the author. Read Klimt02.net Copyright.
Lena Grabher. Brooch: DIPLOPIA 14, 2017. Elasto-plastic, glass, gold plated brass, steel.. 7 x 5 x 2 cm. Photo by: Lukas Gaechter. From series: DIPLOPIA. Lena Grabher
Brooch: DIPLOPIA 14, 2017
Elasto-plastic, glass, gold plated brass, steel.
7 x 5 x 2 cm
Photo by: Lukas Gaechter
From series: DIPLOPIA
© By the author. Read Klimt02.net Copyright.
Lena Grabher. Piece: DIPLOPIA 1 and DIPLOPIA 11, 2015 and 2016. 3D printed elasto-plastic, glass, monofilament.. 48 x 35 x 7.5 cm. Photo by: Lukas Gaechter. From series: DIPLOPIA. Lena Grabher
Piece: DIPLOPIA 1 and DIPLOPIA 11, 2015 and 2016
3D printed elasto-plastic, glass, monofilament.
48 x 35 x 7.5 cm
Photo by: Lukas Gaechter
From series: DIPLOPIA
© By the author. Read Klimt02.net Copyright.
Lena Grabher. Necklace: DIPLOPIA 15, 2017. 3D Printed elasto-plastic, glass, monofilament, silver.. 40 x 35 x 5 cm. Photo by: Lukas Gaechter. From series: DIPLOPIA. Lena Grabher
Necklace: DIPLOPIA 15, 2017
3D Printed elasto-plastic, glass, monofilament, silver.
40 x 35 x 5 cm
Photo by: Lukas Gaechter
From series: DIPLOPIA
© By the author. Read Klimt02.net Copyright.
Lena Grabher. Shoulder Piece: DIPLOPIA 4, 2015. Steel, glass.. 15 x 74 x 20 cm. Photo by: Lukas Gaechter. From series: DIPLOPIA. Lena Grabher
Shoulder Piece: DIPLOPIA 4, 2015
Steel, glass.
15 x 74 x 20 cm
Photo by: Lukas Gaechter
From series: DIPLOPIA
© By the author. Read Klimt02.net Copyright.
Lena Grabher. Bracelet: DIPLOPIA 9, 2016. Plastic (strong and flexible), acrylic mirror, magnets.. 11 x 9.5 x 4 cm. Photo by: Lukas Gaechter. From series: DIPLOPIA. Lena Grabher
Bracelet: DIPLOPIA 9, 2016
Plastic (strong and flexible), acrylic mirror, magnets.
11 x 9.5 x 4 cm
Photo by: Lukas Gaechter
From series: DIPLOPIA
© By the author. Read Klimt02.net Copyright.

Intro
Lena Grabher, 1988, is a Vienna based contemporary jeweler. She started her education in Vienna where she accomplished her apprenticeship examination as a goldsmith. She completed her BFA degree in Florence, Italy at ALCHIMIA contemporary jewelry school in Florence in 2013, to continue her studies in Metals at the State University of New York at New Paltz, where she received her MFA in May 2015. Since 2016 she is a Member of Atelier STOSSimHIMMEL and as well teaches gold- and silversmithing techniques at the Wiener Goldschmiede Akademie. Lena has developed an experimental way of working that is driven by an urge to discover and explore. She combines traditional techniques with digital fabrication processes. Her latest work is entitled DIPLOPIA and was currently awarded the prestigious Eligius - Schmuckpreis.

Statement


Diplopia
Visible and mobile, my body is a thing among things; it is one of them. It is caught in the fabric of the world, and its cohesion is that of a thing. But because it sees and moves itself, it holds things in a circle around itself.
/ Maurice Merleau-Ponty
 
Diplopia means “double vision,” and refers to the symptom of seeing two images instead of one. It is the simultaneous perception of two images of a single object that may be displaced horizontally, vertically or diagonally. In such cases, the dominant image of the object is accompanied by secondary images that may be less intense, distorted, or fleeting. Used here, the term refers to the effects of playback, projection, and distortion, that are threaded through this body of work.

What we place on our body becomes a part of the image of our projected self and therefore acts as an indicator of our identity. How do I want to portray my identity? Jewelry and the skin are similar in their abilities to simultaneously embellish, reveal, and conceal. They are both layers that shape our appearance literally and figuratively. While the kind of jewelry we choose to wear may describe our mood or our personal preferences for certain forms or colors, it can also project the internal, outward. It can commemorate our past, divulge our private relationships, and expose our affiliations. Jewelry has the ability to
effect the way we appear to others, which means it is a method to modify and influence our own appearance. Similarly, a rash can disclose an internal condition, a scar can be a reminder of an event, and wrinkles reflect our age. The skin may be treated artificially, ranging from surgical alterations to tattooing and so forth, revealing our priorities, desires, and anxieties. These layers are constantly being negotiated between the external and internal as a means by which we recognize ourselves both internally and externally, in unison on a physical as well as on a psychological level.
 
In DIPLOPIA I manipulate aspects of physical appearance. Using the language of jewelry, I explore optics and illusion in order to play with the wearer and viewer‘s perception. Jewelry as a traditional means of adornment is a part of our appearance, and therefore a medium to explore this idea more closely. I use jewelry to create a symbiotic relationship between the body and its environment, using light projection, magnification or mirroring to blur the boundary between the two. While the skin is always playing an important role, I am focusing on the presence of the body and the interaction of the wearable object with the body and its surroundings. The position of jewelry in relation to the body is often, but not always, subordinate. What relationships can jewelry create, between the body, adornment, and one’s surroundings? The body is challenging as a site to present an object
because the ability to control the conditions of presentation and reception is limited. What we see and what we perceive are interwoven and cannot be disentangled from each other. I want to use the body, not as a vacancy for adornment, but to acknowledge the body as part of the conceived jewelry, and to create a synergy using the body as an important element of the piece. The space of the body and its variability and particularity complicates perception, but it also activates the objects in a transformative and unpredictable way which makes them particular according to space. Therefore, my goal is to create jewelry that not only stands alone as an object but obtains its function when worn.
 
Diplopia presents Lena Grabher's rigorous investigation of identity, adornment and the subjectivity of the wearer and viewer. She interrogates the nature of jewelry and its relationship to the skin - understanding both as a surface that we can control, manipulate and present to an expanding audience. Through a quasi-scientific aesthetic, Lena Grabher deftly plays with an implied objectivity and presumed to remove from the subject, while the objects present entirely new perspectives that come to life on the body. She realizes this work with exacting methods: cutting optical lenses on a lathe; building the structure by hand and through the use of digital fabrication technologies; and by directly casting her own fabric in silicon embedded with tulle, resulting in a membrane that is both strengthened and decorated by its lace-like pattern. The formal outcome of her research - provocative, wearable objects with characteristics of instruments and devices  - is an astute conflation of ornament and utility that challenges our perception of self and other, and the role of jewelry in this construction.
/ Professor Myra Mimlitsch-Gray, Head of the Metal Program, State University of New York - New Paltz, July 2015

 

CV      View / hide description

Events      View / hide events

2017:
Exhibition  09 Mar 2017 - 11 Mar 2017  Light Matters. A dialogue between jewellery and digital lighting.
Award  08 Mar 2017 - 14 Mar 2017  Talente Competition 2017.
2016:
Open call  08 Nov 2016 - 12 Nov 2016  Jewellery Unchained: Talking About Jewellery as Art.
Exhibition  10 Jun 2016 - 23 Jun 2016  Eligius Schmuckpreis 2016.
2015:
Exhibition  02 Oct 2015 - 16 Oct 2015  Beijing International Jewelry Art Biennial 2015.
2014:
2013:
Fair  07 Nov 2013 - 10 Nov 2013  SIERAAD 2013.
Fair  17 Oct 2013 - 19 Oct 2013  JOYA: Barcelona Art Jewellery Fair 2013.
Exhibition  20 Jun 2013 - 22 Jun 2013  Humans we are.
2012:
Fair  01 Nov 2012 - 04 Nov 2012  SIERAAD 2012.
Fair  11 Oct 2012 - 13 Oct 2012  JOYA: Barcelona Art Jewellery Fair 2012.
Appreciate APPRECIATE