Drop into the Paradise of a Jewellery Cage

Published: 19.11.2017
Yuxi Sun Yuxi Sun
Yuxi Sun
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Exhibition view.
Exhibition view

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A brief and critical tour to The Gioielli in Fermento 2017 Master Collection, one of the off JOYA exhibition.

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As a part of JOYA 2017 review series, I would also like to look back to the Gioielli in Fermento 2017 Master Collection, it was one of the exhibitions from the Off JOYA series. This is rather a special 'feast', which is constructed by an unusual location, well-exhibited scene, thoughtful concept, selective pieces and a heartwarming vibe. It’s a celebration of a 6 years project from Gioielli in Fermento (edition 2011-2017), and the pieces are the selective choices of the most significant in the evolution of the project over the years from artists coming from all over the world and involving a number of guest artists.

Part of the exhibition view.

Back to the beginning of this exhibition, what is Gioielli in Fermento?
It is an international competition that award for contemporary studio jewellery and international exhibition project.
Starting from the landscapes of Italy in the winemaking region of Emilia hills, enjoying positive and inspiring environments, it opens its borders involving established and emerging artists from every country to express their relation to this particular context. The contemporary jewellery here may be seen as a “fermenting” creative process: the challenge is to turn natural and available elements into something precious and unique.

Since 2011, six editions, nearly 400 artists and a wider number of pieces have been presented under the selection of an international board of advisors in the field. Every year Gioielli in Fermento (Jewels in Ferment) aims to gather the infinitely individual expressions of contemporary jewellery makers in relation to popular themes: wine and territories, looking at this terroir as an ensemble of deep-rooted cultural values and elements.

Necklace made by Liana Pattihis.

Torre Fornello has the perfect welcoming atmosphere, where the exhibition holds each year, the Piacenza hills, it’s the development of the viticulture area and also the meeting point of this annual feast. The project concept comes from the curator Eliana’s two personal passion: jewellery and wine. The exhibition holds each year, is based on a given theme that usually associated with wine. It is an interesting sample to see how artists are free to express their interpretation and bring the two worlds (jewellery and wine) together. They are not too far from each other somehow, especially in the approach of those jewellery makers that they dedicate to them their efforts, passions, and lives, together. Making a piece of art jewellery is a link to the way we appreciate a good wine, it’s an emotional communication and sensorial discovery.

Necklace made by Eva Tesarik.

The exhibition was set in the basement of a modern restaurant that they offer super delicious food and good wine selections. It seems they never go too far from the idea of wine. After knowing the concept of the exhibition and seeing the surroundings of the exhibition location, I feel the smell of the wine is in the air.

Going down to the exhibition room from the spiral staircase was mostly dark, I suddenly see a shine of light at the moment when I walk into the room. A huge cage sits in the middle of the room, one big crystal chandelier hanging down from the high ceiling, numerous of small lights attached to the cage for highlighting each piece. By walking into the cage, I dropped into the paradise of a jewellery world - literally the whole world - from looking above to the chandelier, looking around the cage, looking down to the ground, there are pieces hanging, placed everywhere my eyes go. The two single wine red velvet sofas, one double velvet olive green sofa placed by the two sides of a wooden table in the center of the cage, bringing a sense of a warm welcome and ask you to enjoy the atmosphere, just as what Torre Fornello always brings to everywhere. A wine glass made by Maddalena Rocco as one of the pieces placed between two single sofas, which drew a scene in my head: someone left the glass there for a moment, she was sitting on the sofa talking to someone next to her, and the glass was empty, so she must enjoy the wine and waiting it to be refilled.

A wine glass by Maddalena Rocco.

It was a pleasure that I met Eliana Negroni, the curator of the project, she kindly explained to me the content and idea of the project, how each artist has done their personal research within the context of the theme, finding harmony in many expressive elements, gathering their personal interpretive codes around something shared. Some of the artists have taken part in various editions, others are participating for the first time, certainly, each of them has always enjoyed the experience, good wine, and good jewellery, who doesn’t like?
Eliana especially mentioned the ring made by Gigi Mariani is almost like an essential piece of this years and years project, the oxidization of the ring is still changing the color each year, it seems to witness the development of the project and record the process, and it’s continuing…
Ring by Gigi Mariani.

About the author

Yuxi Sun completed her Bachelor of Arts in Jewellery design at Central Saint Martins College of Art and Design in 2015. She is undertaking her Master of Fine arts in Gemstone and Jewellery at University of Applied Science Trier, Campus Idar-Oberstein till 2018. Meanwhile, she is making an internship at Klimt02 during 2017.