Innovative Jewelry Alloys and Prospects for Their Use

Traditional alloys. History, methods of their production.

Precious metals such as gold, silver, platinum, and palladium are very soft in their pure form, making them unsuitable for jewelry. They are also prone to various deformations, making them unfit for everyday use. This is why alloys—combinations of metals with specific properties—are used in the jewelry-making process. These alloys are created by mixing two or more chemical elements to achieve desired characteristics, such as strength, hardness, corrosion resistance, color, and so on.

The history of the development of jewelry alloys spans thousands of years and is closely linked to the advancement of human civilization. As our ancestors mastered new casting technologies and alloys, they were able to transit from the Copper Age to the Bronze Age, and eventually to the Iron Age.

For example, Ancient Egypt was one of the first civilizations to use gold nuggets not only in ritual ceremonies but also for making jewelry. These nuggets, known as "nubi," were the property of the pharaohs, and anyone who found them was required to turn them over to the authorities.
The Egyptians managed to improve metallurgical furnaces and reach the critically important temperature for smelting non-ferrous metals—1150°C. When heated to this temperature, they were able to separate what initially seemed like a homogeneous nugget into three distinct metals: silver, gold, and copper.
Thus, humanity discovered that new elements could be obtained not only through alloying (for example, bronze is made from copper and tin), but also through the decomposition of metals.

In Ancient Egypt, the pale yellow alloy known as Electrum, which is a mixture of gold and silver, was widely used. It is also worth mentioning rose gold, from which some items stored in the Cairo Museum were made. This alloy was reproduced with modern technologies and it was demonstrated that the pink hue was achieved by alloying pure gold with a very small amount of iron.


Tiara of the ancient Egyptian queen Tausert, rose gold


With the acquisition of new knowledge, scientific discoveries, and technological advancements, people learned to create smelting furnaces and casting equipment capable of reaching temperatures exceeding 2000°C. This made it possible to use platinum and palladium as new materials for creating jewelry masterpieces.

However, while other industries continuously sought ways to enhance the mechanical properties of alloys, particularly their hardness, the jewelry industry focused more on design, with the composition of alloys remaining largely unchanged.


Innovative jewelry alloys. History of origin.

It was this conservatism that allowed inventor Sergey Kostin to apply his knowledge gained from working with alloys in the aerospace industry to create innovative jewelry alloys.

Using precious metals as the base material, he began his research. By applying the principle of intermetallic nanophase hardening, which is widely used in the manufacturing of alloys for rocket engines, he succeeded in significantly enhancing the mechanical properties, particularly increasing their hardness.
The method's essence lies in introducing chemical compounds with specific composition and morphology into the base metal's crystal lattice, which allows for the alteration of its properties.

The application of this method guarantees:
1. Increased hardness while maintaining a high content of precious metal in the alloy (even 0.5% of the components is sufficient to enhance hardness by at least 50% compared to traditional alloys, as measured on the Vickers scale).
2. Noble color of the alloys.
3. No need for additional coating and plating.
4. The ability to recycle up to 99% of reclaimed metal back into production due to the absence of low-melting metals in the composition.
5. Hypoallergenic properties.
6. The ability to bring the boldest design ideas to life.

This led to the creation of high-quality precious alloys with increased hardness that do not require protective coatings. The alloys are protected by patents and trademarks.


Palladium-based alloy PalladinGold™.

In 2012, when Sergey began his research, palladium became the first base metal used due to its relatively low cost. The alloy based on it was intended to be an affordable alternative to 18K white gold but with a higher purity of 95% of the precious metal.

However, the situation changed in 2015 with the scandal involving the Volkswagen automotive giant, known as "Dieselgate." The company was found to have deliberately understated the carbon dioxide emissions of its new diesel engine vehicles. When this was exposed, Volkswagen faced a boycott, and car enthusiasts everywhere began switching to gasoline-powered vehicles.


PalladinGold™


Most analysts believe that this situation affected the prices of precious metals. As a result, platinum decreased in value, while palladium's price surged sharply, making it a record-breaker in terms of cost and for a long time, it was priced higher than gold. This is because platinum is used as a catalyst for diesel engines, whereas palladium is used for gasoline engines.

Today, PalladinGold™ is a trademark registered in many countries, under which the palladium-based alloy PalladinGold™ 950 is produced. With a purity of 95%, it boasts enhanced mechanical and consumer properties.





Gold-based alloys Sacris Aurum™.

Gold became the second precious base metal that Sergey started working with. Today, under the trademark Sacris Aurum™, gold-based alloys are sold in three hallmarks: 18K, 22K, and 23K.

Initially, 18K alloys were developed, as this is the most used by jewelers. The principle of intermetallic nanophase hardening allowed the hardness on the Vickers scale to be nearly doubled compared to traditional alloys without using Ni in the composition. These alloys also have noble colors. In particular, Sacris Aurum™ white gold has a beautiful white color and does not require additional coatings (such as rhodium).







After having visited Hong Kong, where it is a tradition to gift newlyweds jewelry made of pure gold (such as bracelets weighing in kilograms), Sergey decided to create high-karat alloys suitable for everyday wear rather than being stored in a vault due to the softness of the material and the fear of deformation. The result was Sacris Aurum™ 22K gold alloy with the following characteristics:



And Sacris Aurum™ 23K, which has no analogues:



A distinctive feature of these two alloys is that the increased hardness allows stones to be securely set in prongs without fear that they will loosen and fall out.
Ring: Dragons of the Hidden Treasure. Sacris Aurum™ 23K, black diamonds, obsidian, black rhodium



Silver-based alloy Purentum™.

Silver is quite a challenging base metal because very few elements can be dissolved in it, as well as it tends to tarnish, both in its pure form and in alloys.
However, it was possible to create the Purentum™ alloys, which consists of 99% silver and 1% ligature or 96% of silver and 4% of alloying elements. As a result, the alloys have a noble silver color and are less susceptible to environmental and biological influences, causing items made of them to tarnish much more slowly than those made from sterling silver. Both Purentum™ alloys do not require rhodium plating.





Platinum alloy.

Platinum, as a base metal, has proven to be one of the most remarkable metals, demonstrating extraordinary properties in alloy form. This has led to an increase in alloy hardness by 1.6 times compared to traditional alloys, even in the as-cast state. Such hardness is at the limit of what can be processed by jewelers and requires high-quality tools. Experiments have shown that after heat treatment, the hardness of the alloy can be further increased by several dozen units on the Vickers scale, making this platinum alloy suitable for structural applications.

There is no trademark for this alloy yet, however, it is protected by a patent.








Bronze alloy.

Over the past five years, the internal jewelry market in Russia has undergone significant changes that have made life more challenging for jewelers. These changes include the implementation of the precious metals and gemstones traceability system (GIIS DMDK) and the cancellation of the simplified tax system for individual entrepreneurs working with precious metals.

Similarly, global trends in the jewelry industry have also seen significant shifts. People all over the world are increasingly turning from precious metals jewelry to fashion jewelry for several reasons. The rising cost of precious metals, driven by market fluctuations and economic uncertainty, has made high-end jewelry less accessible to many consumers. Additionally, the increased focus on sustainability and ethical sourcing has led to concerns about the environmental and social impacts of mining precious metals and gemstones.

This prompted the start of research into alloys for fashion jewelry that do not contain precious metals. The idea is to introduce a bronze alloy with enhanced corrosion resistance, indistinguishable in color from the gold. This would eliminate the need to coat the jewelry with lacquer, which quickly scratches and wears off.
Thus, "golden" bronze was created.

Thanks to a strictly regulated composition, the alloy has a rich yellow color, and the addition of active elements has increased its hardness and corrosion resistance. In other words, items made from this bronze alloy do not require coatings and do not lose their color during use. Moreover, any traces resulting from contact with biological materials can be easily removed with ordinary cleaning agents.



Bronze Ring in Three Stages: From left to right: 1: After casting, 2: 3 months of use, 3: After cleaning



New research and discoveries.

As is often the case, new discoveries happen by chance, and although the creation of innovative jewelry alloys was a deliberate effort, sometimes the results of experiments were unexpected.

• Magnetic gold.

While crafting a bracelet made of Sacris Aurum™ 18K, a master jeweler accidentally discovered the magnetic properties of one of the alloy's modifications. Subsequently, using the same composition, Sergey managed to reproduce the Sacris Aurum™ alloy with magnetic properties but in 23K. You can read about the potential applications of this alloy in the section below.




 

• Obtaining colorful alloys.

During an experiment, which aim was to increase the hardness of a platinum alloy by heating it in a furnace, it was discovered that with a specific heat treatment method (temperature, time, and cooling method), the alloy began to acquire a bluish tint.
By experimenting with the composition and treatment methods, Sergey managed to achieve bright blue and dark gray (close to black) colors.
The method of obtaining colored alloys is similar to the one used by the ancient Egyptians, which was later reproduced by professors from Johns Hopkins University.

Elements responsible for the color are introduced into the base metal in specific stoichiometric ratios. The alloy is then placed in a furnace, where, at a certain temperature and holding time, the surface layer changes color.
The color palette is still in the research phase. However, the results are reproducible and stable. There are plans to expand the range of colors and to experiment with other precious metals as the base metal, not just platinum.



Prospects for the Application of Innovative Alloys in the Jewelry Industry.

Innovative jewelry alloys, advanced technologies, and scientific research open up vast opportunities for creating jewelry. Below, one can find potential prospects of their use in the jewelry industry, where creativity and science are becoming increasingly intertwined.

• Jewelry design

The unique design and craftsmanship invested in creating jewelry, along with well-thought-out and refined details, gemstone inlays, meticulous execution, and artistic value—all of these elements make the pieces attractive and valuable.
However, enthusiasts and connoisseurs of jewelry are becoming more discerning, and jewelers must seek out new materials and techniques to surprise with something extraordinary.

Previously, the relative softness of alloys forced artisans to choose between creating a jewelry art piece or a wearable piece of art. Today, innovative alloys enable the creation of wearable masterpieces of jewelry art.
As structural materials, due to their properties, these alloys allow the creation of complex shapes without the risk of deformation. Artisans can design pieces with straight lines and angles without worrying about over-polishing. They can also produce hollow forms with exquisite designs, reducing both the weight of the jewelry and its cost.
The high hardness of the alloys opens possibilities for experimental work on the surface texture of jewelry and new methods of gemstone setting.

Ring: Singularity, 2019. PalladinGold 950, diamonds, nanosital. Collaboration between Kostin’s Lab and Tatiana Kholodnova.

 

• Chain Manufacturing.

Jewelry chains are versatile ornaments. The most popular chains are gold and silver chains. While gold chains do not present production problems, silver chains have some nuances: in rhodium-plated silver chains, there are untreated areas where the links touch each other, and those untreated areas tend to darken over time.
Manufacturing chains from the silver alloys Purentum™ 960 and Purentum™ 990 will eliminate the need for rhodium plating, as items made from these alloys do not require additional coatings. This will reduce production costs and allow for a uniform color throughout the chain's length.
 

• Watch manufacturing.

The watchmaking industry is not just a world of mechanisms and time; it is art embodied in metal. Watches represent a balance between technical precision and artistic expression.
The high hardness of alloys provides watchmakers with the opportunity to create unique design elements for cases that are resistant to everyday use impact.
 

• Piercing.

The practice of piercing body parts and wearing jewelry in pierced areas is observed across various cultures and time periods. Today, piercing is a part of many people's lives. Hypoallergenicity is a crucial requirement for piercing jewelry. As the composition is strictly regulated and does not have harmful elements, piercing jewelry is another potential field of use.



Prospects for the Application of Innovative Jewelry Alloys in Other Industries.

• Additive Technologies.

Metal 3D printing is an additive technology that allows the creation of 3D objects using metal alloys. This technology is widely used in various industries, such as aerospace manufacturing and space exploration.
There have been attempts to apply this technology in the jewelry industry. However, considering the high cost of precious metals and the technological losses associated with producing powders and the printing process itself, the commercial viability is questionable. Magnetic gold might be a more feasible material for 3D printers.

• Medicine.

Another potential application for these alloys is in the medical field. They can be used in medical implants, such as dental crowns, due to their biocompatibility, strength, and corrosion resistance.
Additionally, research is being conducted on the use of magnetic gold particles as markers for diagnosing cancer cells.

• Fashion and Interior Accessories.

Bronze alloy is used to manufacture fashion accessories (such as buttons) and interior items (such as bathroom faucets).
Thanks to its high corrosion resistance, it enables manufacturers to create premium-class products.



In conclusion, the exploration of innovative jewelry alloys represents a significant advancement in the industry, offering new possibilities for both design and functionality. The development of such alloys showcases how advancements in material science can enhance the properties of traditional metals, providing increased hardness, improved color stability, and greater resistance to wear and corrosion. These innovations not only elevate the quality of jewelry but also expand the scope of creative expression for designers.

The potential applications of these alloys extend beyond traditional jewelry, with promising prospects in areas such as medical implants and fashion accessories. For instance, the ability of these alloys to maintain their appearance without the need for coatings and their biocompatibility make them suitable for high-end medical devices and durable fashion items.

Moreover, the ability to achieve new color shades and unique properties, such as magnetic capabilities, demonstrates how these alloys can push the boundaries of conventional jewelry manufacturing. This aligns with the growing trend towards customization and personalization in the jewelry market.
As the industry continues to evolve, the adoption of innovative alloys is likely to become more widespread, driven by their superior performance and the increasing demand for sustainable and ethically produced materials. The ongoing research and development in this field will undoubtedly lead to even more breakthroughs, further transforming the jewelry design and production landscape.
 

About the author

Sergey Kostin, born in 1967 in Voroshilovgrad, graduated with honors in 1991 from Moscow State Technical University, specializing in Aircraft Technology and Materials. Initially focused on aerospace alloys, since 2012, he has applied his expertise to create advanced jewelry alloys. In 2012, he co-authored a fundamental guide on high-temperature copper alloys. He is the founder of Kostin’s Lab – a family laboratory dedicated to the research and production of innovative alloys for jewelry with improved mechanical and consumable properties.




Anna Kostina, Sergey's daughter, was born in 1994 and graduated with honors in 2016 from the University of Westminster, specializing in PR and advertising. She continued her studies in the metallurgy and jewelry fields, becoming Sergey’s right hand in developing innovative alloys and managing the company’s strategic communications. Her expertise bridges technical knowledge with effective public relations, significantly contributing to the firm's growth.

Website: https://kostinslab.com/
E-mail: kostinslab@gmail.com