New in CODA's collection: Lady Gaga's Dove Brooch by Maison Schiaparelli

Article  /  Collecting   Curating   Exhibiting
Published: 10.09.2021
CODA Museum
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Dove Brooch by Schiaparelli, designed by Daniel Roseberry new in the CODA Museum Collection.
Dove Brooch by Schiaparelli, designed by Daniel Roseberry new in the CODA Museum Collection

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During Joe Biden’s inauguration on 20 January of this year, Lady Gaga sang the American anthem. Just below her shoulder was a golden dove that soared across the globe through online and television broadcasts. Just like Lady Gaga’s outfit, this brooch was designed by Daniel Roseberry, creative director of fashion house Maison Schiaparelli. CODA recently succeeded in acquiring this iconic brooch, shaped like a dove with an olive branch, symbol of hope and peace.
Maison Schiaparelli produced Roseberry’s brooch for the Lady Gaga Born This Way Foundation in a limited edition and in four sizes and four different versions. The Lady Gaga Born This Way Foundation is dedicated to improving the mental health of young people. The proceeds of the sale are donated to the foundation. The brooch will be exhibited in CODA Museum this autumn.  

The history of Maison Schiaparelli and its founder Elsa Schiaparelli (1890) is linked to the image of the dove. Arriving in New York as an immigrant from Europe, Elsa Schiaparelli wore her favorite brooch, shaped like a dove. During the 1930s, Schiaparelli befriended Salvador Dalí and became influenced by dada and cubism, which led her to adopt a more surreal visual language that included her beloved dove. At one point she owned a painting by Picasso depicting a dove and a crow; a symbol of her split personality, according to Schiaparelli biographies. The dove stayed with her all her life, and features in Maison Schiaparelli’s accessories and prints to this day. 
The CODA jewellery collection

With over 10,000 objects, CODA’s art jewellery and costume jewellery collection is the largest in the world. This collection gradually expands through acquisitions, loans, donations and legacies, and gives an overview of the development of jewellery from the mid-60s to the present. During Museumcongres 2015, CODA was presented the State jewellery collection by then-Minister Jet Bussemaker. This collection, consisting of more than 400 objects, was given to CODA Museum as a long-term loan, with the intention of eventually turning the loan into a donation. In that same year, CODA published Redefining Jewellery, a book about the jewellery collection. As of 2015, CODA has also been collecting costume jewellery, establishing a link to contemporary culture and fashion through exhibitions and acquisitions. 

In 2016, CODA acquired a large part of Jozef Wiggers’ (1934-2017) collection of costume jewellery. Jozef – Joop – Wiggers’ collection is not only the ‘imprint’ of a personal story; it also offers a unique view on the development of costume jewellery. Until 21 November 2021, CODA Museum presents highlights from this private collection in the exhibition All that Glitters. Jewellery by Schiaparelli, mainly from the 40s and 50s, is included in both the Jozef Wiggers collection and the CODA collection. 

Maison Schiaparelli. Brooch: Dove, 2021. Gilded pewter.. 12 cm. Part of: CODA Museum. Designed by Daniel Roseberry. Maison Schiaparelli
Brooch: Dove, 2021
Gilded pewter.
12 cm
Part of: CODA Museum
Designed by Daniel Roseberry
© By the author. Read Copyright.