Preziosa. A short History

Article  /  Curating
Published: 28.03.2017
Preziosa. A short History.
Giò Carbone
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Preziosa is a cultural project, an annual exhibition dedicated to Contemporary Jewellery. 2005-2017.

Every year the artistic approach to the complex subject of jewellery is explored through a specific concept and with the selection of artists from the international scene. The project, imagined, managed and coordinated by LAO - Le Arti Orafe Jewellery School in Florence, started in 2005, and has quickly become the most important Italian event devoted to contemporary jewellery.

Preziosa can be considered as an explorative path always in motion, the most important Italian exhibition dedicated to contemporary jewellery.

Preziosa issues

Preziosa 2005.
A new concept of preciousness. Material, source of creative inspiration.

Lucca, Villa Bottini June, 2005
Curator, Maria Cristina Bergesio
Coordinator, Giò Carbone
The first edition of Preziosa presented the works of 11 internationally acclaimed European artists representing three generations so as to be able to demonstrate the possible metamorphoses in material that makes up an ornament designed and created to be the messenger for a new form of aesthetics, for feelings and reflections on our society.

Peter Chang, Giovanni Corvaja, Nel Linssen, Kadri Mälk, Xavier Monclús, Erico Nagai, Francesc Pavan, Jacqueline Ryan, Peter Skubic, Janna Syvänoja, Annamaria Zanella.

2005 Preziosa Display.

Necklace by Jana Syvänoja, 2004. Recycled paper, steelwire. 5,5 x 21 cm.

Bracelet by Peter Chan, 1991. Private collection, USA. Silver, acrylic, resin, pvc. 15 x 6 cm.

Preziosa 2006.
No Body Decoration.

Lucca, Villa Bottini. September-October, 2006
Curator, Maria Cristina Bergesio
Coordinator, Giò Carbone

The exhibition highlights the evolution of the body-jewellery relationship in the field of artistic research and innovation, in contrast to the usual perception of jewellery as decoration or fashion accessory.
In research jewellery, the human body acquires a fundamental role as a source of inspiration and a necessary completion of the creative process.

Friedrich Becker, Bruno Martinazzi, Gerd Rothmann, Gijs Bakker, Christoph Zellweger, Frédéric Braham, Ruudt Peters, Naomi Filmer, David Watkins, Marjorie Schick, Noam Ben Jacov.

2006 Preziosa Display.

Necklace Adam by Gijs Bakker, 1988. Miecke Oosterman's collection. Gold-plated brass 750, colour photo, pvc. 31 x 2 x 28,4 x 0,9 cm.

Brooch Europa by Bruno Martinazzi, 2001. Artist's collection. Gold.

Preziosa 2007-08.
Timetales, Jewellery as a representation of reflections on Time.

Barcelona, Museo Textìl, November 2007-January 2008.
Lucca, Villa Bottini, April-May, 2008.
Curator, Maria Cristina Bergesio
Coordinator, Giò Carbone

Time perceived and translated into objects for the body by eleven internationally-renowned artist-jewellers through reworking and transformation of forms, materials and content, which creates a network of reflections on the past, on the function of jewellery as memory object and its existence as witness to political and social reality, but also as a reflection on the very meaning of jewellery in the contemporary world.

Giampaolo Babetto, Vera Siemund, Stefano Marchetti, Ramón Puig Cuyàs, Mari Ishikawa, Eija Mustonen, Jivan Astfalck, Mah Rana, Katja Prins, Tanel Veenre, Ted Noten.

2007 Preziosa display.

Brooch Da Pontormo by Giampolo Babetto, 1990. Yellow gold.

Suitcase for a Retired Jewellery Maker by Ted Noten, 2003. Artist's collection. Tools cast in acrylic, chrome plastic handle.

Preziosa 2009.
Cutting the mirror. An aesthetic lexicon.

New Delhi, April 2009.
Lucca, Villa Bottini. May 2009.
Curator, Maria Cristina Bergesio
Coordinator, Giò Carbone

The 2009’s edition of Preziosa could be considered an attempt to approach the complex theme of beauty in the research jewellery. Looking at the exhibition as a whole, we may look at the metamorphosis and the erosion of the classic beauty ideals from the ’60 till today.

Mario Pinton, Yasuki Hiramatsu, Graziano Visintin, Robert Baines, Georg W. Dobler, Annelies Planteijdt, Karl Fritsch, Svenja John, David Bielander, Lisa Walker, Sally Marsland, Sebastian Buescher.

2009 Preziosa display.

Bracelet Scampi by David Bielander, 2007. Artist's collection. Silver, cooper anodized, elastic.

Ring Untitled by Karl Fritsch, 2008. Artits't collection. Silver, oxidzed, glass stones.

Preziosa 2010.
Dialoghi: Dialogs.

Florence, Leopoldine old Cloister, 21st of May-20th of June, 2010
Curator, Maria Cristina Bergesio
Coordinator, Giò Carbone

The 2010’s edition of Preziosa presents three masters of research jewellery: three artists, three different nationalities, a geographical line leading from North to South: the Netherlands, Switzerland, Italy. The common elements to be found in their works, in different declensions, are change, metamorphosis and transformation. The three artists have been asked to select a younger artist to set up a dialogue with: the exhibition is thus driven by a “spirit of dialogue”.

Artists “Couples”:
Giampaolo Babetto/Helen Britton
Johanna Dahm/Andi Gut
Ruudt Peters/Evert Nijland

2010 Preziosa display.

Bracelet Fireband by Helen Britton, 1996. Plastic, silver, pearls.

Necklace Guirlandes by Evert Nijland, 2005. Artist's collection. Glass, flock, silver, electric wire.

Preziosa 2011.
Monologue. Parellel worlds.

Personal retrospective of Mari Ishikawa.
Florence, “La Specola” Museum, 5th to 23rd of October, 2011.
Curator, Maria Cristina Bergesio

The work of Mari Ishikawa expresses a deep fascination with the natural world. With a look full of charm, the artist observes nature and manages to infuse the magic in her photographs and her jewellery

2011 Preziosa display.

Ring by EN gold by Mari Ishikawa, 2005. Artist's collection. Silver goldplated.

Preziosa 2013.
Un Certain Regard.

Florence, Marino Marini Contemporary Art Museum. 20th of June – 21st of July, 2013
Curator, Maria Cristina Bergesio
Coordinator, Giò Carbone

Preziosa 2013 starts from the otherness of this peculiar Art, and wants to focus on visual reaction of the “public” in face of contemporary research jewellery. Three thematic sections were created: “Ornamentorum Lex”, “Essere o non essere?”, “Quel che vedo è quello che vedo!”

David Bielander, Sigurd Bronger, Sophie Hanagarth, Suska Mackert, Philip Sajet, Karin Seufert.

2013 Preziosa display.

Necklace Turbine necklace no. 2 by Sigurd Bronger, 2011. Cromeplated brass, painted aluminium, steel, rubber cord. Diagonal 8 cm.

Collier Bijou de famille or Family jewels by Sophie Hanagarth, 1999. Capsules of beer bottle (tin).

Preziosa 2015.

Florence Jewellery Week, 28th of May- 3rd of June, 2015
Curator, Giò Carbone

The 2015 edition has moved from a peculiar concept and has assumed a different form from the usual exhibition, by organizing a week of events entirely devoted to contemporary jewellery and the complex relationships with the design and the craft, with the realization of exhibitions, conferences, workshops, meetings and demonstrations of artists and craftsmen.

Invited Artists:
Philip Sajet, Xavier Monclús, Mi-Mì Moscow, Nora Fok, Bifei Cao, Wang Zhenghong, Wang Kezhen, Sang Deok Han, Jie Sun, Tithi Kutchamuch, Seoyeon Lee, Daniela Hedman.

Special sections:
- The magical of India
- Traditional Jewellery from Africa

Lectures: -  Shannon Guo, Associate Professor, Jewelry and Metals Studio, Fine Arts College of Shanghai University and Artistic Director Two Cities Gallery, Shanghai.
-  Martina Dempf, Jewellery Designer and Social Anthropologist, Berlin.
-  Barbara Schmidt, Jewellery Designer, director of the Akademie für Gestaltung, Munich.
-  Shruti Agrawal, Gunjan Shruti Jewellery, Mumbai.
-  Gabriele Goretti, Istituto Europeo per il Design (IED), Firenze.

2015 Preziosa display.

2015 Preziosa display.

Earrings Physalis by Nora Fok, 2006. Knitted dyed nylon with skeletonized physalis shells. 7,5 cm / 3 ins.

Brooch Aquarium by Xavier Monclús, 2009. Everiday containers. silver, wood and enamel painting. 4 x 6,5 x 1 cm.

Preziosa Young.
Since 2008, LAO has organized the collateral exhibition “Preziosa Young”, dedicated to emerging artists selected through an international competition.
The aim is to contribute to the circulation of what is new in research jewellery, as well as showcase what the new generations of goldsmiths/designers/artists are “brewing”.

Selected artists Preziosa Young 2008-2017
Karin Roy Anderson, Sally Collins, Eva Franceschini, Sina Emrich, Arata Fuchi, Daniela Hedman, Mirjam Hiller, Vaishali Ashok Morjaria, Kathryn Partington, Claudia Rinneberg, Sonja Christine Seidl, Julia Walter, Daniel Di Caprio, Estela Vilanova Sàez, Lisa Grassivaro, Nora Rochel, Pia Pasalk, Sharon Massey, Taisuke Nakada, Tamsin Leighton-Boyce, Melissa Cameron, Eve Cheryl, Yoshie Enda, Adam Grinovich, Monica Haneckova, Erin Keys, Sooyeon Kim, Sachiko Shouji, Sam Hamilton, Hanna Hedman, Lisa Juen, Heejoo Kim, Seul-Gi Kwon, Marie Pendariès, Elena Ruebel, Wan Hee Cho, Rob Elford, Benedikt Fischer, Panjapol Kulpapangkorn, Chiara Scarpitti, Antje Stolz, Lauren Vanessa Tickle, Sang Deok Han, Jie Sun, Tithi Kutchamuch, Seoyeon Lee, Fang Jin Yeh, Qian Wang, Shachar Cohen, Xiaodai Huang.