Review about FRAME at Handwerk & Design 2018

Article  /  Review   CarolinDenter   Exhibiting   Curating   Fairs
Published: 19.03.2018
Carolin Denter
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The Handwerksmesse 2018 offered many things to see with its special shows SCHMUCK, TALENTE, MODERN MASTERS, with the FRAME exhibition and the stands for contemporary jewellery. This is a personal review of the Galleries and Jewellery Exhibitions at FRAME. 
I felt brave and stupid at the same time, to stick with my plan to concentrate all my energy on the Fair. In the end, it turned out, it was a great decision since I had enough time to appreciate the work shown there, not to talk about the numerous good talks I had with visitors, gallerists, and artists.
The IHM in Munich is the Leading Trade Fair for Craft Trades within Europe. And as was found at the beginning of 1948. Already since 1959, the special show SCHMUCK is part of it and a bit later, in 1979 TALENTE was founded.

The International Craft Fair is an experience, that's for sure. Each spring, more than 1,000 exhibitors from more than 60 trade fairs present themselves in 7 Halls at the Munich trade fair center. The Fair master the balance between latest trends in crafts, discussion forums, live workshops & performances as well as consulting by professionals, with topics such as Building & Modernizing, House technic, Kitchen & kitchen equipment, Tool & Technology, Living & working and last and most important for us, the Crafts with its special shows and forums and attracts around 126,000 visitors a year. 

In Hall B1 everything is happening what is related to jewellery. These year's FRAME nine renowned Gallery for contemporary Jewellery showed their selected works.

Galerie Biro:
My Munich exhibition display at FRAME during Handwerk & Design in Munich.

For the first time ever at IHM was Galerie Birò, and i was happy about that! I usually love the selection Kinga Zobel makes, and i admire her idea of the Galerie Birò Junior, in which she works with Newcomers, already since 2010. The Galerie Birò was founded in 1992 by Olga Zobel, is based in Munich and usually dedicated to the leading representatives of contemporary jewellery. Since SCHMUCK has increased and the Jewellery week grown bigger and bigger in the past years, as well Galerie Zobel was increasing its participation. This year, the gallery started with 4 projects from which i saw the curated exhibition at the IHM, which was called My Munich.

Necklace by Reka Lörincz at the exhibition My Munich at IHM 2018.

For this Exhibition, nine artists were invited to express their personal feelings about Munich and the jewellery week. The Outcome was humorous, contemporary and unconventional. My personal highlight was the pieces Reka Lörincz. One Necklace expressed my own feelings about the Jewellery weeks so well, that it made me laugh. An old toy-truck on a chain, loaded with old precious and semi-precious brooches and earrings, basically a lot of bling. The Vintage pieces are fastened with plastic threads, almost a bit sloppy. The first feeling i had about the piece was matching with the story, Kinga Zobel told me about it: As beautiful as the jewellery week ist and as thankful we all are that it exists, sometimes, it's too much. SCHMUCK gives us the feeling to be someone as the artist implements with her statement (SCHMUCK makes me feel like precious). The pendant was for me a nice hint, that not just me is overwhelmed by the pure amount and size of the still growing jewellery week. As Nadja Soloviev, another artist represented by Biro writes in the little catalog published for the fair: Its a marathon of exhibitions: stress, inspiration. After this week, i need Holidays! But i am happy as well. Next year again!.

Necklace by Frieda Dörfer. She draws her inspiration from the unconventional architecture of Munich, especially from the rooftops of famous monuments.

Brooch from Susanne Schwarz, made from Postcards with images from Munich.

Tactile & Gallerie Annick Zuffery:
Tactile Gallery & Galerie Annick Zuffery at FRAME.

The second surprise for me was to see Tactile Gallery by Fabrice Schaefer and Annick Zufferey Gallery at the IHM for the first time. The stand of the both Gallery spaces was combined and was a calm island in the middle of the hectic visitors and stands. With a careful selection of strong pieces and silversmithing works, the stand could convince to spend a lot of time there. The vitrines with few selected pieces and the incredible open mindes and well-equipped gallerists showed me the pieces and a lot of the background stories. The pieces of the represented artists were all made of an extremely high quality. The selection spoke for itself and shows a lot of who the Gallerist is, what is an important point for me. The highlights were definitely the amazing silversmithing vessels from Christophe Desvallées, his quiet compositions of form and color, as well as the technical skills, impressed me a lot.

Vessel Contenants. 1997 - 2017, made by Christophe Desvalleés. He uses the technique of silversmithing to create a vessel from one piece of silver.

Bracelet by Fabriece Schäfer, Titanium, diamonds, anodizing.

Surprising for me, was to learn that the Gallerist himself is making beautifully made titanium jewellery. Bracelet by Fabriece Schaefer.
Last but not least, i was falling in love with the silversmithing works of Adi Toch. Not that it is just incredibly well made, it is surprising its viewer and stimulating our senses trough softly clattering noises by moving the vessels, which are filled with different little objects, which make them whisper.

Patinated whispering vessels by Adi Toch.

Galerie Rosemarie Jäger:
Fair stand of Galerie Rosemarie Jäger at FRAME during Handwerk & Design.

Galerie Rosemarie Jäger was represented with a light and diverse selection of jewellery artists from her gallery.
Since 1989, the gallery has shown both classical positions and exceptional concepts from contemporary applied art. In the process, Rosemarie Jäger has always maintained a commitment to quality and authenticity. Four to six exhibitions each year create connections between different artistic disciplines or are devoted to the comprehensive presentation of individual artists, including both established masters and young talents. The main part of the exhibition space at IHM was dedicated to spoons. Inspired was this show by an old Danish spoon which was not sold at an auction many years ago until Rosemarie Jäger came with an appreciation for qualitative high silversmithing work. Sad by the impression of people, not appreciating the social and aesthetical value of such a simple tool as the spoon, she was asking 14 different artists, to create their interpretation of a spoon. Important for her was, that all spoons are usable in their function as a spoon. Some of the artists took the chance and created spoons just for the fair, other, such as Jakyung Shin got involved with the aesthetic of the spoon much earlier.

Finger Lickin´spoons, Ag 925 , electro-formed, mounted , 2013.

She created a series of so-called Finder Licking Spoons in 2013. Jakyung Shin is an artist from South Korea, living and working in Munich since 2011. She got inspired by the habit of licking the finders after having delicious or greasy food. With this idea in her head, she was melting plastic in parts of her hand and covered this with silver. The handle was inspired by classical shapes of vintage spoons.

Atta Gallery:
Fair stand of Atta Gallery at FRAME.

Atta Gallery was drawing the audience's attention to various Thai-artists, as in the years before. This year's highlight was a Japanese newcomer, which works are inspired by Alexander Calder. Her Kinetik Brooches and Headpieces looked like from another world. Very fragile, poetic, the shaking little round dots made from plastic were shaking by every movement or breath. It was funny that they seemed scared somehow. Just by reflecting the light and the soft shaking movements it received a fragile beauty which was a magnet for the audience.

RA Galerie: 
Ra Galerie at FRAME during Handwerk & Design.

RA Gallery was showing a selection of 16 Artists, represented by the Gallery. As every year, both owners curated the exhibition. Next, to the artists regular represented in the Gallery, both decided to point out one special artist, Karin Herwegh. The artist lives and works like a hermit in the countryside of the Dutch province of Zeeland. Her background and attitude combine directness and simplicity with great imagination and poetry. She uses available materials and simple tools. This collection mainly features lime and beechwood which she has worked with a knife and then colored with oil or paint. She strings individual forms together into necklaces, sometimes adding textiles or a colourful accent. Karin is moved and inspired both locally and globally: by people and animals close to home and by the world of ethnographic art. She weaves these inspirations into new stories that are personal yet universal, strange yet familiar.

Necklace No. 231 / 2016 / Limewood, glass beads, polyester thread.

The collection mainly features lime and beechwood which she has worked with a knife and then colored with oil or paint. Karin is moved and inspired both locally and globally: by people and animals close to home and by the world of ethnographic art.

Sofia Björkman from Platina with her exhibition display at FRAME.

Sophia Björkman from Platina, showed as well artists represented in the Gallery on a regular base. Since 4 years she dedicates one wall of her Stand to the AJF finalists, which had no platform before. The AJF Artist award is awarded during the IHM.

Works from Karin Roy Andersson (Sweden), Bifei Cao (China), Corrina Goutos (US/Germany), Aurélie Guillaume (Canada), and Jelizaveta Suska (Sweden).

Galerie Marzee:
Diverse pieces of jewellery at the stand of Galerie Marzee at FRAME.

Galerie Marzee was represented with the biggest stand and showed two special presentations. One group exhibition of three well-established artists in the field of contemporary jewellery, Dorothea Prühl, Otto Künzli and Robert Smit and a presentation of Marzee for Starters, jewellery and objects of emerging artists who graduated in 2016 and 2017.

Galerie Spektrum:
Galerie Spektrum at FRAME.

Galerie Spektrum was representing a wide range of contemporary jewellery artist. The special focus this year, was set on the works of Barcelona based artists Ramon Puig Cuyás. His working series Maps to get Lost in the Forest were inspired by the forests and the nature of Catalunya. Looking at the world surrounding him, the artist created assemblages, each different and with lots of details to show the variety of the forests, the mountain, the colors and the structures around us.

Ramon Puig Cuyàs Maps to get Lost in the Forest display at the stand of Galerie Spektrum at FRAME. 

Brooches by Ramon Puig Cuyâs from Maps to get Lost in the Forest which contains a lot of little structures or shapes, remaining about the forest. 

IWA, New Zealand makers:
 IWA overview shows featured NZ artists on the walls and selected NZ works on the tables

The 2018 IWA team from l to r: Mia Straka, Maca Bernal and Spring Rees with Moniek Schrijer works in the background (not in view: Hilda
Gascard )

It was not the first time New Zealand makers were represented in a booth at FRAME at Handwerksmesse International Trade Fair. Last year we saw emerging NZ makers from the Handshake Project (a mentor & exhibition project). This year curated by Peter Deckers the IWA exhibition represented a fine cross-section of what New Zealand has to offer in top contemporary jewellery. The walls showcased nine coloured perspectives spanning four decades of local practices in Aotearoa New Zealand, featuring Moniek Schrijer, Shelley Norton,  Karl Fritsch,  Alan Preston, Joe Sheehan, Jane Dodd, Warwick Freeman, Vanessa Arthur,and Lisa Walker. The red tables showed combinations of selected works from other NZ jewellery artists, from well-established to fresh graduates.

Brought together for Munich Jewellery Week, these practices articulate a relationship to one another as tributaries to a larger, transforming field of practice, each charting their own path through distinct relationships with narrative, materiality, history and geographic location.Drawing these diverse views and approaches to the material landscape into conversations is emblematic of the complexity and rigor of the current jewellery practice in New Zealand. It is a hand full of threads, rather than a single common theme, and an introduction to a wider intergenerational artistic conversation.

Display of Lisa Walkers work at FRAME

Lisa Walker is a contemporary jeweller based in Wellington, New Zealand. She has an extensive international exhibition history, and her work is held in numerous international collections including Musée Arts Décoratifs Paris, France and the National Gallery of Victoria, Melbourne, Australia. In 2007 she received the Foerderpreis der Stadt München, and the Francoise van den Bosch Award in 2009. In 2015 Walker was made an Arts Laureate of the New Zealand Arts Foundation. Her work is like no other. Lisa is a master in transforming her selection of found and manipulated materials into artistic endeavours.

Karl Fritsch Ring, silver, ruby, 2017 

Since emigrating to New Zealand in 2009 Karl Fritsch has become an important contributor to local jewellery and artistic contexts and he has gone on to collaborate with many local artists. The artist is well known for his iconic interpretations of jewellery and was showing outstanding rings made from different metals in combination with stone. 

Shelley Norton, Nest of Brooches 2017. Plastic, sterling silver, stainless steel.

Shelley Norton is a contemporary jeweller based in Auckland, New Zealand. Taking a transformative and process orientated approach to materials, Norton's work examines notions of how meaning is manufactured in a playful manner.

Vanessa Arthur, The golden snake and nail wall hook, 2017. One way ring; Waiting space wall hooks; 18ct yellow gold - plated in fine silver, sterling silver oxidised, brass, heat set paint, cord.

Vanessa Arthur is a jeweller and object maker based in Hawke’s Bay, New Zealand. Her work explores the urban environment and the tension that emerges between ‘planning’ and quotidian gestures. Born in Wellington, New Zealand in 1982, at completion of a Bachelor of Applied Arts at Whitireia Faculty of Arts Arthur was selected as Artist in Residence at Toi Pōneke Arts Centre, Wellington, and awarded the 2011 Fingers Gallery Graduate Award. Arthur exhibits throughout New Zealand and internationally. 

Jo Sheehan, Object: Big Rock, 2017, Basalt, Sth Island, NZ.

Joe Sheehan is a contemporary jeweller and stone carver based in Wellington, New Zealand. Since graduating with a Bachelor of Jewellery Design from Unitec, Auckland, Sheehan has exhibited extensively throughout New Zealand and internationally and was included in the 28th Sao Paulo Biennial, Brazil. In 2006 Sheehan was an inaugural recipient of the New Zealand Arts Foundation's New Generation Award and in 2010 he received an Antarctica Fellowship.

Moniek Schrijer, bananas 2016, porcelain & silver.

Moniek Schrijer is a contemporary jeweller based in Wellington, New Zealand. Since completing a Bachelor of Applied Arts and a Post-Graduate Diploma in Jewellery and Printmaking at Whitireia New Zealand, she has been the recipient of numerous awards and residencies. Her most notable accolades include the 2016 Herbert Hoffmann Preis and the 2015 Françoise van den Bosch artist in residence.

Warwick Freeman, Scallop Blossom, 1994. Scallop shell, gold, oxidized silver

Warwick Freeman is a leading contemporary jeweller from Auckland, New Zealand. Frequently exhibiting internationally, his works are held in museum collections throughout New Zealand, Australia, Europe and the USA. 

Alan Preston, Ulabanana Necklace 2017. Banana seeds, Vau, Paint.

Alan Preston is well known for his achievements as part of the bone stone shell movement and his recent jewellery using fibre and found materials. Alan Preston was among the vanguard of contemporary jewellers who, in the early 1980s, took a gentle, under-the-radar craft and elevated it into the realm of art. As one of the founders of the pioneering jewellery collective Fingers, he made jewellery that adapted Pacific materials and motifs, capturing and leading the zeitgeist. 

Jane Dodd, Wing 2016. Recycled wood, sterling silver.

Jane Dodd is a contemporary jeweller and musician based in Dunedin, New Zealand. She holds a BA from the University of Otago, Dunedin and a Diploma of Jewellery Design from Unitec, Auckland. Her highly celebrated recent work has drawn on elements of fairy tale and depictions from the animal world rendered in a variety of woods, stone, bone and semi-precious stone. Dodd's work is often designed around ideas of recording or mapping elements of the landscape within New Zealand. 

Stand of Astonish "The Holy Rock" during FRAME 2018.

Last but not least, Astonish. The Collective was not part of FRAME 2018 but remarkable for me. The graduates from University of Applied Sciences in Idar-Oberstein had one of the most spectacular stands in Hall B1. The group of female jewellery, which have the passion for the work with stone or stone-like materials in common. Each artist had an elegant grey table with drawers, to store a lot of unconventional and fresh ideas transformed into jewellery.
Helen Habtay presented jewellery made of Leather and stone, inviting the wearer to play around with colors, materials and the own senses. Pia Groh presented her newest poetic stone pieces, made from Agate and Rock Crystal. The unbearable lightness of the stone confuses the audience but the sound and haptic of her stones are unmistakable.

En el umbral de Xibalba – necklace – Anodized aluminium, syntetic corundum, 14 kt gold, 33.5 x 16 x 2.5 cm ,2017,Qi Wang.

Eva Burton presented her Master Collection with which she graduated in 2018, a play- and colorful bunch of objects, sculptures and jewellery, mainly worked from gemstones and aluminum.

Same Shit, Necklace, Bird shit pearls (from the Shenkar jewelry department), gold plated brass, 2017, photo rights Stephie Morawetz

Stephanie Morawetz presented her new project NOD (Not only Decoration) in which she works with a Friend on a critical compendium of what jewellery is. She questions in an intelligent and funny way the rules of value and wearability. Julia Obermaier, which is currently working in her own Atelier in Kempten presented her currently evolving pieces, dealing with the topic of architecture and rooms.

Untitled, Necklace , Titanium Nets, Malachite and lapis lazuli Powder, Cement, Resin epoxy,  2017 photo by Nima Ashrafi.

Sharareh Agaei which graduated as well recently from Idar-Oberstein, explored her persian roots, by using a combination from tradiational weaving techniques, executed with metal in her case, and stone carving, which she learned in Idar-Oberstein. Gabriela Cohn showed her newest works in Porcelain and Enamel on copper and silver.
All in all a vibrant and lustful combination of very different but intercommunicating works, which are made from 6 makers with very different backgrounds and the one common motivation, the passion for jewellery.

About the author

Carolin Denter completed her training as Goldsmith at Master School for Craftsmen in Kaiserslautern in 2013. In 2015 she made an Internship at Klimt02, where she is working since 2016 as Content Manager. In 2017 she graduated with Bachelor of Fine Arts in Gemstone and Jewellery at University of Applied Science Trier, Campus Idar-Oberstein. After her graduation, she started working part-time as Marketing and Design management Assistance at Campus Idar-Oberstein in the Gemstone and Jewellery Departement.