Special interview for Romanian Jewelry Week: A conversation with INHORGENTA’s Stefanie Maendlein and Irina Probst

Tell us more about your background. How did you become the Exhibition Manager at INHORGENTA? Where did your passion for the jewelry industry come from, and what inspired you to pursue a career in this field?

Irina Probst: My journey to becoming Exhibition Manager at INHORGENTA has been a fascinating blend of professional experience and personal passion. I've always been drawn to the world of art and design, and this role allows me to combine my professional skills with my deep-rooted love of aesthetics.
My passion for art and design goes beyond just viewing and collecting - I've always wanted to integrate this love into my professional life. Joining INHORGENTA as Exhibition Manager has allowed me to do just that. In this role, I am able to apply my understanding of aesthetics and my appreciation of craftsmanship to the world of jewelry. The jewelry industry, in particular, fascinates me because it represents a perfect fusion of art, design, and functionality. Each piece tells a story, reflects cultural influences, and shows incredible skill and creativity. Working with INHORGENTA allows me to be at the forefront of this industry, witnessing and facilitating the presentation of cutting-edge designs as well as timeless classics.


Since it was founded in 1974 as the ‘1st International Trade Fair for Watches, Jewellery, Precious Stones and Silverware’, it has concentrated on providing a comprehensive overview of the luxury goods sector and has grown steadily in terms of size, participation and reputation.


INHORGENTA Campus, Munich 2024.



INHORGENTA Munich is celebrating its 50th anniversary. How has the fair evolved over the past five decades and what are some of the most significant milestones that have shaped its position in the jewelry industry?

Stefanie Maendlein: Over the past 50 years, INHORGENTA has become Europe's leading platform for jewelry, watches and gemstones. Since it was founded in 1974 as the ‘1st International Trade Fair for Watches, Jewellery, Precious Stones and Silverware’, it has concentrated on providing a comprehensive overview of the luxury goods sector and has grown steadily in terms of size, participation and reputation. Since its inception, INHORGENTA has welcomed the world. The internationality of INHORGENTA is reflected in its exhibitors from all over the world. Since its inception, INHORGENTA has welcomed not only all the major countries but also almost all the big names in the industry. Since 1998, the event has been held at the new Exhibition Center, which boasts state-of-the-art security systems and an excellent infrastructure. Strategic partnerships, such as the recent collaboration with the Fondation Haute Horlogerie and the Gem and Jewellery Export Promotion Council of India, have further strengthened its global position. INHORGENTA's ability to remain a trendsetter and a link between design, craftsmanship and technology has cemented our status in the industry.


One of the platform's outstanding contributions is the INHORGENTA TRENDFACTORY, a platform dedicated to exploring future trends and showcasing groundbreaking ideas in design, sustainability and technological advancements.


INHORGENTA TRENDFACTORY Munich 2024.


In what ways has INHORGENTA influenced global jewelry trends and innovations over the years?

SM: By consistently bringing together industry professionals, facilitating trend exchange, and showcasing the latest in design and technology,
INHORGENTA has shaped the direction of global jewelry trends and continues to influence the industry's future. One of the platform's outstanding contributions is the INHORGENTA TRENDFACTORY, a platform dedicated to exploring future trends and showcasing groundbreaking ideas in design, sustainability and technological advancements. It serves as an invaluable forum for industry professionals to gain insight into emerging styles, consumer preferences, and market shifts. In addition, Watch Talks has been instrumental in influencing global watch trends by providing a space for thought leaders and experts to discuss innovations in watch design, production, and market dynamics. Last but not least, the INHORGENTA AWARD has been instrumental in spotlighting emerging talent and enabling innovative designers to gain international recognition. This has diversified global jewelry design, bringing fresh ideas and modern aesthetics to the forefront.


The “Brand New” area is specifically created for recent graduates and students, providing them with a platform to present their innovative designs and creations.

Brand New Area at INHORGENTA Munich 2024.


INHORGENTA is known for being a hotspot for young designers and emerging talent. How does the platform foster and promote new designers or creative startups in the industry?

IP: INHORGENTA is recognized as one of the premier platforms for fostering and promoting young designers and emerging talents in the jewelry industry. The exhibition features a dedicated area specifically designed for jewelry designers, goldsmiths, silversmiths, and young talents, including schools and universities. This unique space, strategically located at the heart of the exhibition, provides several cost-effective opportunities for newcomers to showcase their work. The “Brand New” area is specifically created for recent graduates and students, providing them with a platform to present their innovative designs and creations. After gaining experience in the “Brand New” area, young talents can progress to the “Design” area, where they can exhibit alongside more established designers, fostering growth and networking opportunities. Additionally, schools and universities are welcome to participate, displaying the work of their young students. This not only promotes the institutions but also gives students valuable exposure to the industry.

INHORGENTA's commitment to nurturing new talent is further demonstrated through initiatives like the Young Professional Program, which supports industry newcomers and recent graduates, as well as the INHORGENTA AWARD that encourages fresh perspectives in design.


Selection criteria focus on originality, design excellence, technical mastery, market impact and overall contribution to the advancement of the industry.


The INHORGENTA AWARD has become a prestigious recognition in the industry. Can you tell us more about the significance of this award and the criteria for selecting winners?

SM: The INHORGENTA AWARD is one of the most prestigious events in the industry, celebrating innovation, creativity and craftsmanship in several categories. These categories include Designer of the Year, Design Newcomer, High Jewelry, Fine Jewelry, Fashion Jewelry, Gemstone of the Year, Luxury Watch and Watch Design, and Retail Excellence. The awards aim to highlight both established brands and emerging talent and provide a platform for international recognition. Selection criteria focus on originality, design excellence, technical mastery, market impact and overall contribution to the advancement of the industry. Each year, an international panel of industry experts judges the entries to ensure that the winners reflect the highest standards of excellence in the field. This award serves to spotlight cutting-edge work and set the standard for the future of the industry.


 INHORGENTA AWARD Munich 2024.


In particular, the activities of Assamblage drew our attention to the Romanian Jewelry Week. The high quality of the work presented at ROJW impressed us so much that we decided to award an INHORGENTA prize at the event.


This year, INHORGENTA is hosting its first conference in Romania during Romanian Jewelry Week 2024. What are the goals of this collaboration, and what potential do you see in the Romanian jewelry market?

SM: Eastern Europe has always been a very important market for INHORGENTA, both in terms of visitors and exhibitors. Romania is an important part of this region and we have always noticed that Romanian designers and jewelry companies are making their mark. In particular, the activities of Assamblage drew our attention to the Romanian Jewelry Week. The high quality of the work presented at ROJW impressed us so much that we decided to award an INHORGENTA prize at the event.


The participation of the Assamblage contemporary jewelry school since last year has further strengthened the connection between Romanian jewelry design and INHORGENTA.


How have you seen the presence of Romanian jewellers evolve at INHORGENTA over the years? Have you noticed any emerging trends or unique styles from Romanian designers?

IP: INHORGENTA has consistently welcomed Romanian jewelry companies and designers, who have regularly participated in the fair, showcasing their creativity and distinctive perspectives. Romanian designers often combine traditional craftsmanship with contemporary aesthetics, focusing on geometric and minimalist designs inspired by modern architecture and nature. Emerging trends include a strong emphasis on sustainability, with many designers exploring innovative uses of recycled materials. The participation of the Assamblage Contemporary Jewelry School since last year has further strengthened the connection between Romanian jewelry design and INHORGENTA.


A key strength of Romanian jewelry designers is their attention to detail and commitment to quality.


In your opinion, what makes Romanian jewelry designers stand out on an international platform like INHORGENTA?

IP: What sets Romanian designers apart is their ability to incorporate their cultural heritage into modern designs, creating pieces that are both timeless and avant-garde. A key strength of Romanian jewelry designers is their attention to detail and commitment to quality. Many draw inspiration from Romania's rich history and natural landscapes, incorporating elements of folklore, nature, and architecture into their creations. The result is jewelry that tells a story and conveys a sense of place, appealing to those seeking meaningful and distinctive pieces.

A particularly noteworthy aspect of Romanian designers is their active presence on the global stage. They frequently participate in international exhibitions and events, constantly exploring new ideas and techniques, which I find very positive. This eagerness to innovate not only enhances their own work but also enriches the global jewelry landscape.


What advice would you give to jewelry designers looking to showcase their work at an international platform like INHORGENTA?

IP: Thorough research and planning are essential, given the professional nature of our visitors. We recommend staying informed about current market trends while maintaining your unique design perspective. Authenticity is important, so present your distinctive vision but remain open to feedback and new ideas.

 

About the Interviewee

 
Stefanie Maendlein
INHORGENTA Exhibition Director.
















 
Irina Probst
INHORGENTA Exhibition Manager.









 

About the author

Alexandra Bujenita is the PR manager of Romanian Jewelry Week team, Art developer of Creative team of Imbold Cultural Foundation, PR account at Hello Menthol.