Contemporary jewellery from Italy

Jewellery from Italy is a touring exhibition organized by AGC, Associazi Gioiello Contemporaneo. The Association was founded in 2004 and is the first of its kind in Italy. Its aim is that of supporting and promoting contemporary jewellery on an international level.

The fourteen participating artists were selected by Stephen Bottomley, Chairman of The Association for Contemporary Jewellery in the UK. They range from very accomplished and established goldsmiths like Montebello who worked with Sonia Delaunay, Lucio Fontana, Alex Katz and Man Ray in the sixties and the seventies on producing ranges of jewellery for them to younger generation of artists like Sucuro and Lignel.

It is an exhibition with a strong emphasis on constructed jewellery, very typical of the Italian jewellery scene. Most of the artists are Italian or based in Italy, and make use of ancient techniques that are still widespread and used by most contemporary jewellers. In fact, the preservation of these craftsmanship techniques is considered and used as an asset and as a heritage of the Italian culture. The combination of these technical skills with a strong creativity, results in jewellery that speaks a language of its own.

Maria Rosa Franzin uses ancient techniques and materials, typical of the Italian tradition and her close relationship with the art world has influenced her works immensely. The pieces reveal an almost sketch-like appearance, that can be seen in the pure gold strokes on her oxidised silver surfaces.

Also Bonati’s work is typically Italian in the use of materials, mainly working in gold she creates her own alloys producinginteresting colour variations. She often incorporates white enamel into her pieces, complimenting the gold surface of the metal. She is drawn to the concept of movement and transformation, and likes the idea that nothing ever stays the same. A necklace can become a bracelet, an earring can become a brooch, a ring can become a bracelet.

The “Arte Povera” movement that developed in Italy in the second half of the 1960s has influenced Semeraro’s work. Interested in the disparity between the value conferred by man to gold, as opposed to iron. Semeraro uses a combination of iron, with the warm colour of pure gold and silver, to obtain different chromatic variations. She likes to use materials that show they have a past life (materials that tell a story) such as iron sheets from old electrical transformers or old wood. 

Bloomard’s work is characterised by different textures and contrasting use of colours. He is inspired by how ancient civilisations adorned themselves. His work could almost be displayed alongside exhibits found in museums. 

Roberta Bernabei is more concerned with jewellery that goes beyond mere adornment. Space, absence, presence, the human body are her main interests.The idea of making space tangible has been one of her main areas of research and this theory has developed into a concept of space surrounding the human body. 

Kolar enjoys playing with the contrast between volume and weightlessness creating surprise for the viewer when the piece is first held or worn. Her jewellery has a strong sculptural impact, deriving from a clever use of light and shade, created by her exploitation of surfaces with different inclinations. 

Margareta Niel is inspired by the wan light of the moon that appears uniform to the viewer, but with growing concentration, a palette of different colour nuances emerges from the white. Jewellery is an object which, worn on the body, becomes an everyday companion. Jewellery is a symbol, is a “toy for the soul”.