Jewellery and Identity in Frontstage and Backstage. An Essay by Yiwei Huang for the Degree BA (Hons) Fashion Jewellery at the London College of Fashion, University of the Arts London

Jewellery pieces displayed in museums are usually labelled for symbolising certain historical periods or technical innovations as timeless facts. However, this research examines the evolving meanings of jewellery over time and from different perspectives. Examples in this article illustrate a significant shift in jewellery’s meaning from the public display to personal significance for the wearer, where it becomes less about showing a performative identity and more a witness to the wearer’s personal history, becoming part of their identity.

This paper analyses the intricate and dynamic relationship between jewellery and its wearer. Using theories from sociology and phenomenology, it explores jewellery’s functions in public and private contexts, and the interrelated social and personal meanings of jewellery.

>> Download and read the full paper