I was surprised that primarily technically demanding handcrafted works were submitted. Sam Tho Duong, curator for the SCHMUCKmünchen 2026, interviewed by Anna Wójcik-Korbas

Sam Tho Duong (born 1969) is a Pforzheim-based freelance designer and master goldsmith. He completed his education at the Vocational college for jewellery and equipment design in Pforzheim, later earning a Diploma in Design (FH) from the Pforzheim University of Design in 2002. His distinguished career includes winning the Herbert Hofmann Prize (2009) and the Friedrich Becker Prize (2014). His works are held in prestigious international collections, including the Victoria & Albert Museum in London, the Museum of Arts and Design (MAD) in New York, and the Jewellery Museum Pforzheim. In 2025, he was appointed as the curator for the SCHMUCKmünchen 2026 exhibition.
 
 
Anna Wójcik-Korbas: How did you react when you were invited to curate this year’s Schmuck exhibition?
 
Sam Tho Duong: I was absolutely thrilled because I hadn't expected it at all, especially since there are so many incredibly talented artists in the jewellery community, and even more so those from Munich. I feel very honoured.
 

AW: Could you tell us about the selection process and the statistics for this year’s competition?
 
Sam Tho Duong: As known, this year there were over a thousand – to be precise, 1,046 applications from 68 countries. From these, I was initially able to select between 60 and 65, but in the end, I chose 69 artists from 29 countries for the jewellery show SCHMUCKmünchen. I have noticed that more and more people from the West and East are participating each year, with a very strong presence from Korea, the USA, China, and Taiwan.
I carefully reviewed all the submissions, selecting those based on aesthetics, formal language, design, and technique that align with contemporary art. What I find most exciting is how people handle the material and how far they allow themselves to explore the possibilities for the artwork.
 

AW: Every year, the Schmuck exhibition reflects the curator’s personal touch. What does this selection reveal about your own values in jewellery, and what criteria guided your choices?
 
Sam Tho Duong: My personal style can be found in my various works and creative phases, and it should not be the deciding factor for the selection of SCHMUCKmünchen.
When curating, my main focus was on the originality of the ideas and their execution. I also made sure that the selected works had not already been shown in a similar form and execution in previous SCHMUCKmünchen exhibitions, as far as I could see.
 

AW: While reviewing so many works, did you notice any emerging trends in contemporary jewellery, or did it feel more like a mosaic of individual approaches?
 
Sam Tho Duong: Of course, a competition with such a large number of submissions from all over the world is always a mosaic of highly individual ideas. However, at least in terms of materials and techniques, a certain trend could be seen: waste materials and found objects are increasingly being used for jewellery.
I was surprised that primarily technically demanding handcrafted works were submitted, and that AI and 3D printing seemed to have little influence on the design this year.
 

AW: To what extent are young designers represented this year, and how does their influence show in the exhibition?
 
Sam Tho Duong: I'm delighted that so many young designers applied with their interesting work; several of them are represented in the exhibition. For me, this proves that contemporary jewellery is by no means a thing of the past, but rather a field that is constantly developing.






 

About the Interviewee

Sam Tho Duong, born in Vietnam and based in Pforzheim, Sam Tho Duong is one of the most influential voices in contemporary jewellery. With his experimental eye, he transforms natural finds and everyday materials into poetic, precisely designed works. The beginning of many works lies in observing nature and the everyday. Growth, decay and chance are creative motors for him: Failed attempts often open up new horizons.

With international exhibitions, major prizes such as the Friedrich Becker Prize and the Herbert-Hofmann-Prize, as well as works in museums such as the V&A London or MAD New York, Duong brings expertise and sensitivity to his role as curator of SCHMUCK 2026.
 

About the author

Anna Wójcik-Korbas (b. 1995, Poland) is an art historian, researcher, and curator of contemporary jewelry. From 2021 to 2025, she served as the coordinator of the Legnica Jewellery Festival SILVER. She is a member of the International Amber Association and a co-curator of the Unnecessary Jewellery exhibition.
 
This interview was supported by the Adam Mickiewicz Institute as part of the NetWorks programme.