Just Must. International Jewellery Art Exhibition

“Just Must” (in Estonian: “black and nothing but”) was the theme of a jewellery exhibition in Tallinn in 2008, initiated and organised by the Estonian professor of jewellery Kadri Mälk. Fifty-eight artists from eighteen countries presented their own, widely varying, individual solutions to this subject as documented in the present book.

The jewellery shown here is “black” on the one hand because dark or black materials such as jet, ebony or black diamonds have been used to make it. But it is also “black” in the figurative sense, for example in the way it deals with existential problems. Pieces such as Konrad Mehus’ gold Valium-dispenser brooch, Tanel Veenre’s “Guilty Conscience” or Francis Willemstijn’s “The Widow” are overtly about human anxieties, cares and crises. A “Dark Painting” by Tore Svensson, on the other hand, is just what the title says: a black painting that can be worn as a brooch.

The approaches taken by these artists to the “black” theme documents the avant-garde stance represented in their art works: jewellery is no longer viewed as merely decorative or a status symbol whose value depends solely on the material of which it is made. Instead it becomes a vehicle for expressing aesthetic ideas by means of unconventional materials and forms.

Photography by: Tanel Veenre
 

Artists list:

Akiko Kurihara, Andreas Treykorn, Andrus Rumm, Bettina Speckner, Birgit Skolimowski, Christer Jonsson, Christophe Burger, Claudia Costa, Cristina Filipe, David Watkins, Dongchun Lee, Esther Brinkmann, Eve Margus-Villems, Francis Willemstijn, Gemma Draper, Giovanni Corvaja, Heigo Jelle, Helena Lehtinen, Jaanika Pajuste, Janna Syvänoja, Johanna Dahm, Julia de Ville, Julia Maria Künnap, Kadri Mälk, Karen Pontoppidan, Karl Fritsch, Kertu Tuberg, Ketli Tiitsar, Kiko Graziano Gianocca, Kirsten Bak, Konrad Mehus, Kristiina Laurits, Kätrin Beljaev, Leili Kuldkepp, Leonhard Lapin, Maarja Niinemägi, Manfred Bischoff, Maria Valdma, Mari Funaki, Otto Künzli, Paula Crespo, Peter Bauhuis, Peter Chang, Peter Skubic, Peter de Wit, Piret Hirv, Ramón Puig Cuyàs, Rian de Jong, Robert Baines, Ruudt Peters, Svenja John, Tabea Reulecke, Tanel Veenre, Ted Noten, Therese Hilbert, Tore Svensson, Truike Verdegaal, Villu Plink, Xavier Domènech.