Marcus & Co. Three Generations of New York Jewelers

As a leader among American jewelry firms, Marcus & Co. were patronized by families such as the Rockefellers, the Wades, the Flaglers, and the Vanderbilts. Their plique-àjour designs of the early 1900s were particularly sought after; these artistic, three-dimensional enamels featuring extravagant shapes, natural motifs, and glowing colors represent the pinnacle of Marcus & Co.’s creations. Further, the family’s travels in India undeniably influenced Marcus & Co.’s designs for decades, while other styles drew on antique models that were very much in vogue, inspired by archaeological discoveries of the time. Marcus & Co. remained important participants in both the American and European jewelry scenes, through family ties as well as personal and business relationships.

Thus the book also traces the development of the New York jewelry industry from the 1850s to the 1950s, in addition to the impact of such major global events as the Gold Rush, the Great Depression, and World War II. Those interested in the history of New York City will discover intriguing details about lost streetscapes and social customs, conveyed through period photographs, personal letters, and business records.

Co-authors Sheila Barron Smithie and Beth Carver Wees conducted their research in numerous archives and libraries as well as through newspapers, trade journals, and fashion magazines; over twenty surviving design books proved particularly valuable to their understanding of the firm’s evolution. Lavishly illustrated with jewels, period images, and design drawings, this volume documents the diverse production of Marcus & Co. over three generations. Supplemented by annotated maps, exhibition lists, and an index of makers’ marks, this new publication will become an important reference work for historians, collectors, and jewelry enthusiasts.