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Émaux at this Moment

Exhibition  /  17 Oct 2014  -  16 Nov 2014
Published: 05.10.2014
Annamaria Zanella. Brooch: Little Butterfly, 2011. Silver, rock crystal, enamel, gold. Annamaria Zanella
Brooch: Little Butterfly, 2011
Silver, rock crystal, enamel, gold
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Intro
Galerie Noel Guyomarc’h presents contemporary enamel work by 23 international artists. Curated by Jamie Bennett, renowned American jewelry artist, this exhibition offers an overview of the current use of enamel in contemporary jewelry and objects.

Artist list

Johan van Aswegen, Atsuko Bauman, Kate Bauman Mess, Alicia Jane Boswell, Stephen Bottomley, Helen Carnac, Bettina Dittlmann, Carolina Gimeno, Arthur Hash, Kaori Juzu, Heejoo Kim, Stefano Marchetti, Myra Mimlitsch-Gray, Qu Megnan, Sarah Perkins, Philip Sajet, Barbara Seidenath, Bettina Speckner, Jessica Turrell, Graziano Visintin, Silvia Walz, Annamaria Zanella & Jamie Bennett
Émaux at this Moment: International Exhibition of Contemporary Enamel Jewelry and Objects

«This exhibition was conceived to point at a particular phenomenon that is occurring in contemporary jewelry internationally. Enamel as color, surface and image has been reinvigorated and to some degree reinvented as a significant material used by jewelers and metalsmiths internationally. While jewelry has certainly been the primary benefactor and represents the larger part of this exhibition, there has also been a great shift in its use on vessels and tile work. For most of the twentieth century enamel was defined and executed in very specific processes, such as cloisonné, champlevé and Limoges, all very traditional and refined. Modernism did have its influence on more gestural enamel work in the mid fifties and early sixties but even that became formulaic and predictable.

The advent of experimentation with a wide range of materials used by jewelers from the late 20th century to where we are today brought a new curiosity and interest in enamel as a material and not a specific process related to it. The qualities of enamel that drew interest were the inherent characteristics of a vitreous powder that needed a substrate of metal, onto which it melted, flowed and hardened. These became the defining properties jewelers and metalsmiths were interested in without the boundaries of particular processes. The use of enamel by jewelers in this exhibition can be quite raw and in other cases well rendered, but each piece demonstrates a willingness and determination to see what this material can do well.

Contemporary jewelry has for some decades witnessed a shift toward a more democratic use of materials, where plastic stands beside gold, and coal replaces diamonds. Traditional materials were traded in or juxtaposed with materials that possessed a more abstracted value. While the seed of this shift was in part socio/ political and an attempt to rid contemporary jewelry of its status as a symbol of luxury, the qualities of the “new” materials themselves began to manifest their own presence in the work. All materials have inherent meaning, but they also have a visual presence that can be used to reinforce what we think jewelry can be and should be. Enamel as a material and a practice has and will continue to hold qualities that contribute to the field of jewelry and metalwork. It is very exciting to see work from all corners of the world where one material has gained a new momentum and its appearance has been adjusted to fulfill our needs from jewelry and metalwork today. To borrow a phrase from painting, enamel is not dead, it has many ways of occuring and that is clearly apparent in the jewelry and metalwork in EMAUX AT THIS MOMENT.»

Jamie Bennett
Exhibition curator

Remarks

Opening reception: Friday 17 October, 2014, 5-8pm
Alicia Jane Boswell. Brooch: SNAG, 2013. Enamel on steel, green turquoise, CZ, sterling silver. Alicia Jane Boswell
Brooch: SNAG, 2013
Enamel on steel, green turquoise, CZ, sterling silver
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Arthur Hash. Brooch: Untitled, 2014. Sterling silver, enamel, copper, stainless steel. Arthur Hash
Brooch: Untitled, 2014
Sterling silver, enamel, copper, stainless steel
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Atsuko Bauman. Pendant: Untitled. Sterling silver, enamel, copper, rubber. Atsuko, BaumanPendant: UntitledSterling silver, enamel, copper, rubber. Atsuko Bauman
Pendant: Untitled
Sterling silver, enamel, copper, rubber


Atsuko, Bauman
Pendant: Untitled
Sterling silver, enamel, copper, rubber

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Barbara Seidenath. Brooch: Twisted. Sterling, enamel on fine silver. 2012. Barbara, SeidenathBrooch: TwistedSterling, enamel on fine silver2012. Barbara Seidenath
Brooch: Twisted
Sterling, enamel on fine silver
2012


Barbara, Seidenath
Brooch: Twisted
Sterling, enamel on fine silver
2012

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Bettina Speckner. Pendant: Tokio, 2009. Silver, photo in enamel, jasper. Bettina Speckner
Pendant: Tokio, 2009
Silver, photo in enamel, jasper
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Carolina Gimeno. Necklace: Portable Pleasures – When intimacy become public. Socks, copper, enamel, leather, silver. Carolina, GimenoNecklace: Portable Pleasures – When intimacy become publicSocks, copper, enamel, leather, silver. Carolina Gimeno
Necklace: Portable Pleasures – When intimacy become public
Socks, copper, enamel, leather, silver


Carolina, Gimeno
Necklace: Portable Pleasures – When intimacy become public
Socks, copper, enamel, leather, silver

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Heejoo Kim. Brooch: Untitled, 2014. Enamel, copper. Heejoo Kim
Brooch: Untitled, 2014
Enamel, copper
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Helen Carnac. Object: Into and out of the field, 2014. Copper, enamel, rope, wood. Helen Carnac
Object: Into and out of the field, 2014
Copper, enamel, rope, wood
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Jamie Bennett. Brooch: Bonticou Crag, 2014. Sterling, enamel, copper. Jamie Bennett
Brooch: Bonticou Crag, 2014
Sterling, enamel, copper
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Jessica Turrell. Necklace: Untitled, 2014. Vitreous enamel on etched copper, silver. Jessica Turrell
Necklace: Untitled, 2014
Vitreous enamel on etched copper, silver
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Kaori Juzu. Brooch: RockVisionII#06, 2014. Enamel, glass pearl, copper, silver, stainless steel. Kaori Juzu
Brooch: RockVisionII#06, 2014
Enamel, glass pearl, copper, silver, stainless steel
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Kate Bauman Mess. Necklace: RusticatorNo1, 2014. Laser engraved enamel, copper, silver. Kate Bauman Mess
Necklace: RusticatorNo1, 2014
Laser engraved enamel, copper, silver
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Myra Mimlitsch-Gray. Vessel: Untitled, 2014. Porcelain enamel on steel. Tall patched Vessel. Myra Mimlitsch-Gray
Vessel: Untitled, 2014
Porcelain enamel on steel
Tall patched Vessel
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Philip Sajet. Ring: Cullinan 7. Rock crystal, gold, enamel. Philip, SajetRing: Cullinan 7Rock crystal, gold, enamel. Philip Sajet
Ring: Cullinan 7
Rock crystal, gold, enamel


Philip, Sajet
Ring: Cullinan 7
Rock crystal, gold, enamel

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Qu Mengnan. Object: Little Red Hood V, 2014. Copper, enamel. Qu Mengnan
Object: Little Red Hood V, 2014
Copper, enamel
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Sarah Perkins. Brooch: Vertical Black Drusy, 2014. Copper, silver, enamel, drusy. Sarah Perkins
Brooch: Vertical Black Drusy, 2014
Copper, silver, enamel, drusy
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Silvia Walz. Brooch: Still life with scissors 1. Copper, enamel. Silvia, WalzBrooch: Still life with scissors 1Copper, enamel. Silvia Walz
Brooch: Still life with scissors 1
Copper, enamel


Silvia, Walz
Brooch: Still life with scissors 1
Copper, enamel

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Stefano Marchetti. Brooch: Varazioni sul rosso, 2012. Enamel on gold, silver. Stefano Marchetti
Brooch: Varazioni sul rosso, 2012
Enamel on gold, silver
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Stephen Bottomley. Brooch: Black on red. Enamel, steel, rubber. Stephen, BottomleyBrooch: Black on redEnamel, steel, rubber. Stephen Bottomley
Brooch: Black on red
Enamel, steel, rubber


Stephen, Bottomley
Brooch: Black on red
Enamel, steel, rubber

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