A look at men's jewellery at GemGenève

Today, however, the days of men’s jewellery being worn solely as a symbol of power and wealth appear to have gone for good. The rebirth of jewellery for men since the 2010s is actually due to another factor altogether: men have changed the way they relate to jewels and jewellery in general, argues GemGenève co-founder Ronny Totah. Today, men account for up to 30% of jewellery purchases from certain collections by brands and independent craftsmen and women, and the ninth incarnation of GemGenève will have plenty in store for men in search of jewels and other items of jewellery. With a special focus on unisex jewellery, the event's forthcoming edition will invite visitors to rediscover – and perhaps reconsider – men’s jewellery.


The Art of Brooch-Wearing
Mathieu Dekeukelaire, director, GemGenève.

Mathieu Dekeukelaire (who has worked alongside the two families that co-founded GemGenève right from the very first edition of the event) readily acknowledges a sense of pride at having played a role in the success of “a tradeshow unlike any other.” After joining the organising team in 2019, his love for jewels and innovative jewellery has grown with each successive edition. Unable to resist the temptation of acquiring at least one item for himself every year at Palexpo, this lover of fine things explains that he’s often fallen for jewels because they’ve provided just the right wow effect, adding elegance and originality to an otherwise informal style. Here, he reveals some of his favourite pieces and tells us how and when he likes to wear his jewellery.


Are brooches for men making a comeback?
More and more men have been wearing brooches over the past few years – just as they used to back in ancient times, in fact. In that sense, there’s nothing especially modern about it. What’s new is the way in which men are wearing them nowadays: either as part of their smartest outfits or with more casual wear; and in recent years, men wearing jewellery have become a more familiar sight via the twin worlds of fashion and social media.


Why do you like brooches in particular?
You’re right that brooches are one of my favourite jewellery items! For one thing, I find they’re an easy way of adding a touch of elegance to a piece of clothing or indeed an entire outfit. The other thing I love is the way brooches offer you an incredible amount of freedom in just how you wear them. You can stay ‘traditional’ by wearing a brooch on a jacket – or be more daring by putting one on a sweater or a hoodie. Brooches work really well as style disruptors, creating an unconventional look without taking too many risks. Putting a brooch on the lapel of the plainest of shirts can create a discreet but stylish effect.


What’s your advice on choosing a brooch?
I’ve always been drawn to pretty things – and all the style and expertise they enshrine. That said, actually buying a brooch involves a little mental exercise: imagining the kind of occasion when you might wear it, which outfit it would go with, and so on; I find that to be an important part of the purchasing decision. I always go with my instinct, whether I’m drawn to a particular design or an especially fine piece of craftsmanship.
Aluminium, titanium, enamel and spinel brooch by designer A.win Siu
© A.win Siu


Tell us about your favourite brooches!
Well, here’s my very first one – a brooch with an amethyst that I picked up at the Geneva flea market. I like understated pieces with something a little offbeat about them. The most recent one I bought is a Lacloche – not at all flashy, but very elegant. And then there’s whatever I find next – an Art Deco double clip perhaps, preferably a Cartier! Some day...

What about a ‘love at first sight’ find?
Brooches aside, I was really blown away by the pair of ear pendants designed by Claire Choisne in 2023 for Boucheron’s Carte Blanche More is More collection. At first glance, they’re a very feminine item, but they can be repurposed as a much more casual unisex accessory: hoodie strings! That’s precisely the kind of fun touch I look for in jewellery: bringing it to life by taking a different approach, wearing it in a radically different way from that intended.



About GemGenève
GemGenève is the go-to event for lovers of precious stones, jewel collectors and jewellery industry professionals. The friendly show with an intimate feel brings together all the players in the industry – including leading international dealers – in Geneva for a cross-cutting event now recognised as a meeting place for enthusiasts and experts from all over the world. GemGenève also offers a vibrant overview of work by younger artists, serving as a valuable springboard for emerging designers and other talents of the future. Open to connoisseurs and the general public alike, GemGenève invites everyone to celebrate jewellery arts and crafts and strives to pass on rare know-how through an intense programme of cultural activities: original thematic exhibitions presenting museum-quality pieces, talks, temporary bookshops and arts & crafts workshops. Every year, leading jewellery houses, institutions and museums partner with the event to display historic items and masterworks of high jewellery.



Below you'll find a Klimt02's selection of men / unisex jewellery (not to be present at GemGenève 2025).