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A Jewel Show by Gabi Dziuba

Exhibition  /  05 Feb 2014  -  04 May 2014
Published: 28.02.2014
Neues Museum für Kunst und Design in Nürnberg
Gabi Dziuba. Ring: Smiley, 1992. Gold, rubies, brilliant cut diamond, amethyst, pearl. Photo: Die Neue Sammlung – The International Design Museum Munich (A. Laurenzo). Gabi Dziuba
Ring: Smiley, 1992
Gold, rubies, brilliant cut diamond, amethyst, pearl
Photo: Die Neue Sammlung – The International Design Museum Munich (A. Laurenzo)
© By the author. Read Klimt02.net Copyright.

Intro
With her narrative qualities and colorfulness but also in her open-minded approach Gabi Dziuba occupies a special position in so-called Autorenschmuck. Jewelry to her mind always has a function determined by the intrinsic need for it to be wearable.

Artist list

Gabi Dziuba
Painter and installation artist Martin Kippenberger owned a gold sword studded with diamonds and rubies by her; Munich-based artist Hans-Jörg Mayer wears one of her coral skull pendants with a golden cowboy’s hat; and Austrian artist Heimo Zobernig had her design his wedding rings from the diamond-studded letters “EGALEGAL”. And Gabi Dziuba develops her exhibition concepts together with artists such as Günther Förg and Christian Philipp Müller. Born 1954 in tranquil Singen am Hohentwiel not far from Lake Constance, like few other jewelry designers Gabi Dziuba has remained in close contact with artists of her generation, the “Neo-Expressionists” and “New Wild Ones” of the 1980s, whose works seek to set themselves apart from the intellectualism of Minimal Art and Concept Art through expressiveness, narrative quality and emotionality, through strong coloring and large formats.

Trained as a jewelry designer by one of the founders of modern jewelry art, the Pforzheim jewelry artist and university lecturer Reinhold Reiling (1922-1983), it was the visit to an exhibition of drawings by Andy Warhol in Stuttgart in 1976 that led to her decision to design jewelry. His drawings of shoes, decorated with gold leaf, from the 1957 exhibition “A picture show by the artist Andy Warhol”, had a profound effect on her. The choice of exhibition title for Gabi Dziuba’s presentation in Neues Museum für Kunst and Design in Nuremberg draws a respectful analogy to the Warhol show, and is intended on the part of the artist.

Dziuba studied at the Academy of Fine Arts in Munich in the class of Hermann Jünger (1928-2006), the doyen of modern jewelry art. The artist creates multi-part jewelry objects of precious and non-precious metals comprising up to 18 sections but without determining their arrangement. The wearer is involved in the design of the jewelry and has a certain independence, which lends the items an individual nature previously unknown, very attuned to the ideals of the 1968 generation. Decorative wooden strips sold by the meter from the DIY store are painted in bright colors; when worn they appear artistically showy and in their serial nature they recall Dziuba’s training as a jewelry designer. Thin wooden panels coated in gold leaf function as enormous, oversized brooches, altering the proportions of the human body, enabling it to become a surface to be painted, but also aptly visualize Gabi Dziuba’s remark “I thought if I give it a gold coating then it’s jewelry” and the intended criticism.

Following the formation of the band “Die Schlüssel” (The Keys) in 1984 together with Munich artist Hans-Jörg Mayer (the name references “The Doors”) and with Gabi Dziuba as vocalist, the jewelry artist’s gaze moves away from abstract forms towards everyday items such as keys, buckets and E-guitars or hand mirrors and smileys. Now she defines “creating a form as a stroll through thoughts, nature and materials”. High-quality materials are employed such as refined gold, white gold, cut diamonds, diamonds, rubies and emeralds, which often stand in direct contrast to the jewelry itself as with the pendant “Scheisse” (Shit) provocatively made of white gold and diamonds. Gabi Dziuba does not place crowns on heads but on working fingers, bricks are suspended from ears, Pluto’s nose is no longer black but studded with precious stones, while his fur is colorful and styled as in a comic.
With her narrative qualities and colorfulness but also in her open-minded approach Gabi Dziuba occupies a special position in so-called Autorenschmuck. Her individual designs are influenced by her affinity with contemporary artists, literature and music. Jewelry to her mind always has a function determined by the intrinsic need for it to be wearable.

Today, the jewelry designer Gabi Dziuba lives and works in Berlin.

Remarks

Opening hours:
Tuesday to Sunday 10 a.m. – 6 p.m., Thursday 10 a.m. – 8 p.m., closed on Monday

Organizer:
Die Neue Sammlung – The International Design Museum Munich – and Neues Museum für Kunst und Design in Nuremberg
Gabi Dziuba. Brooch: Untitled, 1983. Wood, beaten gold. Photo: Die Neue Sammlung – The International Design Museum Munich (A. Laurenzo). Gabi Dziuba
Brooch: Untitled, 1983
Wood, beaten gold
Photo: Die Neue Sammlung – The International Design Museum Munich (A. Laurenzo)
© By the author. Read Klimt02.net Copyright.
Gabi Dziuba. Brooch: Untitled, 1981. Wood (decorative strip), paint. Photo: Die Neue Sammlung – The International Design Museum Munich (A. Laurenzo). Gabi Dziuba
Brooch: Untitled, 1981
Wood (decorative strip), paint
Photo: Die Neue Sammlung – The International Design Museum Munich (A. Laurenzo)
© By the author. Read Klimt02.net Copyright.
Gabi Dziuba. Pendant: Pluto, 2011. White gold, topaz, colorit. Photo: Die Neue Sammlung – The International Design Museum Munich (A. Laurenzo). Gabi Dziuba
Pendant: Pluto, 2011
White gold, topaz, colorit
Photo: Die Neue Sammlung – The International Design Museum Munich (A. Laurenzo)
© By the author. Read Klimt02.net Copyright.
Gabi Dziuba. Bracelet: Untitled, 1986. Wire, glass, plaster, hair. Model of a bracelet 
. Photo: Die Neue Sammlung – The International Design Museum Munich (A. Laurenzo) . Gabi Dziuba
Bracelet: Untitled, 1986
Wire, glass, plaster, hair
Model of a bracelet
Photo: Die Neue Sammlung – The International Design Museum Munich (A. Laurenzo)

© By the author. Read Klimt02.net Copyright.
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