Back

A Newly Ordered World. Jewellery from the Napoleonic Era

Exhibition  /  OnlineOnly  /  19 Oct 2019  -  14 Jun 2020
Published: 21.05.2020
A Newly Ordered World. Jewellery from the Napoleonic Era.
Pforzheim Jewellery Museum
Curator:
Martina Eberspächer
Management:
Cornelie Holzach
Unkown. Choker: Untitled, Approx. 1820. Gold, pearls, rubies.. Photo by: Petra Jaschke. Part of: Pforzheim Jewellery Museum. Presumptively made in Germany; Probably from the estate of Napoleon’s second wife Marie Louise.. Unkown
Choker: Untitled, Approx. 1820
Gold, pearls, rubies.
Photo by: Petra Jaschke
Part of: Pforzheim Jewellery Museum
Presumptively made in Germany; Probably from the estate of Napoleon’s second wife Marie Louise.

© By the author. Read Klimt02.net Copyright.

Intro
Napoleon Bonaparte fundamentally changed the political geography of Europe, radically and lastingly transforming the continent’s civic landscape within a very short timespan. 2019 marks the anniversary of his birthday: 250 years have gone by since the birth of the French general, politician and emperor. Like Alexander von Humboldt, who revolutionised people’s view of nature, and developed modern, interdisciplinary scientific perspectives, Napoleon, too, significantly contributed to shaping our modern world.

After Pforzheim’s Jewellery Museum reponend after the lockdown due to corona, the current special exhibition can be seen until Sunday, 14 June. As no guided are tours possible for the time being, curator Martina Eberspächer and museum director Cornelie Holzach take visitors on a virtual tour of the exhibition.
The current exhibition »A newly ordered World - Treasures from the Napoleon Era« at Pforzheim‘s Jewellery Museum is extended until Sunday, 14 June. The reason for this is that the following show »Exotic Formosa - contemporary jewellery from Taiwan by Ruan Weng Mong«, which was planned for the end of March, had to be cancelled at short notice due to the coronavirus: The transport of the loans is currently not possible.

According to the present state of planning, the topic will be postponed until autumn 2021. This unexpectedly freed up time window offers the opportunity to show the exhibition on Napoleon, which is highly appreciated by the public, for a longer period of time. »We have been observing the situation in China closely for some time now and have exchanged views with Ruan Weng Mong. Since the situation with regard to transports from Taiwan was now also coming to a head, we, unfortunately, had to pull the ripcord,« explains museum director Cornelie Holzach. »But that doesn't mean that the issue has been resolved - we are merely postponing it by about a year. I am very pleased that the lenders of ›Napoleon‹ have reacted positively so quickly. Only a few exhibits have to leave the Jewellery Museum already now, at the originally planned end of the exhibition on 1 March, as they have been promised to other museums for their projects.

Napoleon’s personality and farsightedness are still fascinating. In his Code civil (back then called Code Napoléon), the equality of all people as declared during the French Revolution was codified – at least for the men –, and neither the aristocracy nor the clergy were favoured merely due to their social status any longer,
explains Cornelie Holzach, the director of Pforzheim’s Jewellery Museum. In 2019, the Jewellery Museum is featuring two future-oriented personalities. After the Unconfined horizons – Treasures Retracing Humboldt’s Travel Routes exhibition about Humboldt, the show entitled A Newly Ordered World – Treasures from the Napoleonic Era will, from 19 October 2019 through 1 March 2020, be spotlighting Napoleon’s influence, as well as the jewellery and fashion of his era, which was undergoing major changes. Visitors can look forward to admiring about 150 exhibits, including pieces created by Chaumet, Napoleon’s court jeweller. Numerous pictures will be showing how Napoleon presented himself and had himself depicted and, exhibited alongside documents, as well as utilitarian and luxury items will be giving visitors an impression of his epoch.

Jewellery created in Napoleon’s era
The jewellery of Napoleon’s era was very different from that created before the French Revolution: it was more unobtrusive but no less precious; rather, it was even more valuable. Its formal idiom was reminiscent of the Biedermeier style: delicate and, unlike the pompous Baroque jewellery, sleekly simple and finely crafted, gilded and sometimes embellished with intaglios and laurel leaves. Diadems and representative necklaces created back then will be on the show, as well as a golden dinner service, plus a belt typical of the time, enhanced with malachite and intaglios, which was fastened at the wearer’s back with silk bands, thus gathering the fashionable, gently flowing dresses below the bosom. We’ll also be showcasing fashion lithographs and magazines to illustrate the correlation between jewellery, fashion and politics. The garments worn during the Ancien Régime, comprising breeches and wigs, corsets and crinoline dresses, were entirely unfashionable and no longer wearable after the political change. The beginning of the Directory in 1795 brought about the development of a distinctive, antiquity-driven Parisian fashion. Women were now wearing short-sleeved dresses with a high waistline, whose cuts and designs required new types of jewellery. Napoleon was an aficionado of cameos and intaglios in the classical antique style which, in addition to symbolising his imperial aspirations, highlighted the gemstones’ multi-layered structure to perfection, says co-curator Martina Eberspächer. Fabrics were often enhanced with a bee motif that, in a sense, was symbolic of a turning away from the royalist lily.
Another facet is Berlin Iron Jewellery: during the period of the Napoleonic Wars of Liberation 1813–1815, ladies were asked to donate their precious metal jewellery and exchange it for iron jewellery. In line with the motto I gave gold for iron, they regarded themselves as patriots for the rescue of the fatherland. These interrelationships between the arts and crafts and politics can be appositely spotlighted by this exhibition; that’s what I find particularly exciting about it, says Martina Eberspächer, adding: We’ll be presenting an overview of the Napoleonic era, which brought about fundamental societal changes within a relatively short period of 15 years and, during these highly dramatic years, also inspired the creation of superbly crafted objects. In Baden-Württemberg particularly, whose precursor states were being contoured back then, the Napoleonic era had far-reaching consequences.

The life and achievements of the French emperor
Born in the Corsican capital, Ajaccio, in 1769, Napoleone Buonaparte was a descendant of an Italian family of minor nobility. He had seven siblings. Thanks to a scholarship for impoverished students of noble lineage, he was able to attend a military school, where his strategic skills and his will to power soon led to his meteoric rise. Napoleon knew how to translate his successes on the battlefields into political power and, by marrying Joséphine Beauharnais, a noblewoman who had close links with the Parisian high society, he also climbed the social ladder. In 1799, Napoleon overthrew the revolutionary government and became First Consul. In 1804, he published the Code Civil as the first code of civil law in France, which was soon adopted by other states as well, thus translating the Revolution’s central notion of liberty into a legal form that is still valid today. In the same year, he appointed himself emperor and started his wars of expansion. In 1809, he divorced Joséphine because their marriage remained childless, and married the Austrian emperor’s daughter Marie Louise with whom he had his only legitimate son Napoleon II. In 1812, his Russian Campaign ended in disaster, and a year later he lost the Battle of the Nations near Leipzig. He escaped from his exile on the island of Elba, but he suffered a crushing defeat at Waterloo and was banned to the British island of St. Helena, where he died in 1821. The German poet Heinrich Heine wrote: »Napoleon is not made of the wood used to carve kings – he is made of the marble used to make gods.«
 
Curators guide through Napoleon exhibition. Virtual tour at Pforzheim’s Jewellery Museum
Pforzheim Jewellery Museum
2020
Museum director Cornelie Holzach and curator Dr. Martina Eberspächer welcome to a virtual tour of the Napoleon exhibition at Pforzheim‘s Jewellery Museum.
© Schmuckmuseum Pforzheim, Photo Daniela Samsony

 

© By the author. Read Klimt02.net Copyright.
Unkown. Choker: Untitled, Approx. 1820. Gold, pearls, rubies.. Photo by: Petra Jaschke. Part of: Pforzheim Jewellery Museum. Details.Presumptively made in Germany; Probably from the estate of Napoleon’s second wife Marie Louise.. Unkown
Choker: Untitled, Approx. 1820
Gold, pearls, rubies.
Photo by: Petra Jaschke
Part of: Pforzheim Jewellery Museum

Details.
Presumptively made in Germany; Probably from the estate of Napoleon’s second wife Marie Louise.

© By the author. Read Klimt02.net Copyright.
Baron François Gérard. Painting: Empress Josephine in coronation costume, 1807/08. Oil on canvas.. Part of: Musée National du Château de Fontainebleau. Baron François Gérard
Painting: Empress Josephine in coronation costume, 1807/08
Oil on canvas.
Part of: Musée National du Château de Fontainebleau
© By the author. Read Klimt02.net Copyright.
Unkown. Print: Fashion print for a revolutionary habitus Costume Parisien, Presumptively 1799. Unkown
Print: Fashion print for a revolutionary habitus Costume Parisien, Presumptively 1799
© By the author. Read Klimt02.net Copyright.
Napoleon’s official jeweller Marie-Étienne Nitot (?). Belt: Ornamental belt, Approx. 1800. Gold, pearls, malachite cameos.. Photo by: Winfried Reinhardt. Part of: Pforzheim Jewellery Museum. Napoleon’s official jeweller Marie-Étienne Nitot (?)
Belt: Ornamental belt, Approx. 1800
Gold, pearls, malachite cameos.
Photo by: Winfried Reinhardt
Part of: Pforzheim Jewellery Museum
© By the author. Read Klimt02.net Copyright.
Nicola Morelli. Brooch: Cameo brooch depicting Napoleon, Early 19th century. Agate, diamonds, silver, gold.. Part of: Albion Art Collection. Nicola Morelli
Brooch: Cameo brooch depicting Napoleon, Early 19th century
Agate, diamonds, silver, gold.
Part of: Albion Art Collection
© By the author. Read Klimt02.net Copyright.
Unkown. Tiara: Ears of corn tiara, 1st half of the 19th century. Gold, silver, diamonds.. Part of: Jewellery Institute, Tokyo. Private Collection, Courtesy of Albion Art.. Unkown
Tiara: Ears of corn tiara, 1st half of the 19th century
Gold, silver, diamonds.
Part of: Jewellery Institute, Tokyo
Private Collection, Courtesy of Albion Art.

© By the author. Read Klimt02.net Copyright.
Unkown. Plate: Plate with revolution motifs, 1793. Photo by: Thomas Goldschmidt. Part of: Badisches Landesmuseum, Karlsruhe. Permanent loan from the Verein der Freunde des.. Unkown
Plate: Plate with revolution motifs, 1793
Photo by: Thomas Goldschmidt
Part of: Badisches Landesmuseum, Karlsruhe
Permanent loan from the Verein der Freunde des.

© By the author. Read Klimt02.net Copyright.
Martin-Guillaume Biennais. Set: Toilet set of Grand Duchess Stephanie of Baden, 1728-1811. Silver, gold, enamel, glass.. Photo by: Thomas Goldschmidt. Part of: Badisches Landesmuseum Karlsruhe. Martin-Guillaume Biennais
Set: Toilet set of Grand Duchess Stephanie of Baden, 1728-1811
Silver, gold, enamel, glass.
Photo by: Thomas Goldschmidt
Part of: Badisches Landesmuseum Karlsruhe
© By the author. Read Klimt02.net Copyright.
Georgius Jacobus Johannes van Os. Vessel: Gilt milk jug, 1812. Porcelain, painted, gilded.. Photo by: Thomas Goldschmidt. Part of: Badisches Landesmuseum Karlsruhe. Georgius Jacobus Johannes van Os
Vessel: Gilt milk jug, 1812
Porcelain, painted, gilded.
Photo by: Thomas Goldschmidt
Part of: Badisches Landesmuseum Karlsruhe
© By the author. Read Klimt02.net Copyright.
Unkown. Piece: Cradle, 1815-18. Holz, mahogany, metal/gold, silk taffeta.. Photo by: Thomas Goldschmidt. Part of: Badisches Landesmuseum Karlsruhe. Unkown
Piece: Cradle, 1815-18
Holz, mahogany, metal/gold, silk taffeta.
Photo by: Thomas Goldschmidt
Part of: Badisches Landesmuseum Karlsruhe
© By the author. Read Klimt02.net Copyright.
Unkown. Object: Sabre of honour with the coat of arms of the Margraviate of Baden, Approx. 1805. Damascene blade, gold, mother-of-pearl.. Photo by: Thomas Goldschmidt. Part of: Badisches Landesmuseum Karlsruhe. Unkown
Object: Sabre of honour with the coat of arms of the Margraviate of Baden, Approx. 1805
Damascene blade, gold, mother-of-pearl.
Photo by: Thomas Goldschmidt
Part of: Badisches Landesmuseum Karlsruhe
© By the author. Read Klimt02.net Copyright.
Unkown. Ring: Eugène de Beauharnais' diamond ring, 2020. Diamond. Part of: Napoleonmuseum Thurgau, Schloss und Park Arenenberg. Unkown
Ring: Eugène de Beauharnais' diamond ring, 2020
Diamond
Part of: Napoleonmuseum Thurgau, Schloss und Park Arenenberg
© By the author. Read Klimt02.net Copyright.
Antoine-Denis Chaudet. Sculpture: Emperor Napoleon I, 1811. Marble from Carrara.. Photo by: Peter Haag-Kirchner. Part of: Historisches Museum der Pfalz, Speyer. Antoine-Denis Chaudet
Sculpture: Emperor Napoleon I, 1811
Marble from Carrara.
Photo by: Peter Haag-Kirchner
Part of: Historisches Museum der Pfalz, Speyer
© By the author. Read Klimt02.net Copyright.
Unkown. Tiara: Cameo tiara, 2020. Gilt silver, shells, carnelian, imitation pearls, glass.. Part of: Diamond Museum Amsterdam. Belonging to the Swedish royal family (replica).. Unkown
Tiara: Cameo tiara, 2020
Gilt silver, shells, carnelian, imitation pearls, glass.
Part of: Diamond Museum Amsterdam
Belonging to the Swedish royal family (replica).

© By the author. Read Klimt02.net Copyright.
Unkown. Object: Jewel casket for Empress Marie Louise, 1810-13. Leather on the wooden carcase, velvet and red leather lining, a mirror on the underside of the lid, brass fittings.. Photo by: M. Özkilinc. Part of: German Leather Museum. Unkown
Object: Jewel casket for Empress Marie Louise, 1810-13
Leather on the wooden carcase, velvet and red leather lining, a mirror on the underside of the lid, brass fittings.
Photo by: M. Özkilinc
Part of: German Leather Museum
© By the author. Read Klimt02.net Copyright.
Unkown. Object: Jewel casket for Empress Marie Louise, 1810-13. Leather on the wooden carcase, velvet and red leather lining, a mirror on the underside of the lid, brass fittings.. Photo by: M. Özkilinc. Part of: German Leather Museum. Alternative view.. Unkown
Object: Jewel casket for Empress Marie Louise, 1810-13
Leather on the wooden carcase, velvet and red leather lining, a mirror on the underside of the lid, brass fittings.
Photo by: M. Özkilinc
Part of: German Leather Museum

Alternative view.

© By the author. Read Klimt02.net Copyright.
Jean-Baptiste Isabey. Piece: Portrait Miniatures, 1808. Photo by: Schultheiss. Part of: Fürstlich Hohenzollernsche Sammlungen. Portrait of Napoleon I.. Jean-Baptiste Isabey
Piece: Portrait Miniatures, 1808
Photo by: Schultheiss
Part of: Fürstlich Hohenzollernsche Sammlungen
Portrait of Napoleon I.

© By the author. Read Klimt02.net Copyright.
Jean-Baptiste Isabey. Piece: Portrait Miniatures, 1808. Photo by: Schultheiss. Part of: Fürstlich Hohenzollernsche Sammlunge. Portrait of Josephine Bonaparte.. Jean-Baptiste Isabey
Piece: Portrait Miniatures, 1808
Photo by: Schultheiss
Part of: Fürstlich Hohenzollernsche Sammlunge
Portrait of Josephine Bonaparte.

© By the author. Read Klimt02.net Copyright.
Exhibition venue..
Exhibition venue.

© By the author. Read Klimt02.net Copyright.
Exhibition venue. .
Exhibition venue.

© By the author. Read Klimt02.net Copyright.
Appreciate APPRECIATE