Spirit of Luxury and Design. A Perspective from Contemporary Fashion and Jewellery

The vast medium of jewellery and fashion artefact design continues to be a central pillar of fashion luxury goods industries and artistic practice, but there is a lack of discussions on the researches, value and roles of it. Design is an expression of values and attitudes, and a tangible form of guiding the thoughts and desires of individuals and members of society, when science, technology and craftsmanship reach a stage, whether products and services become luxurious or not, its quality, uniqueness, artistry and rarity are all achieved through design.

The editing of the book and the writing of the chapters lasts nearly three years, including the pandemic period. The original intention of publishing this book is that, on the one hand, based on the successful holding of “The First WoSoF World Symposium for Fashion and Jewellery Design” in Shanghai at the end of 2018, It was hold and organized by Tongji University Collage of Design and Innovation, co-organized of Genève Univeristy of Art and Design, in collaboration with Polytechnic University of Madrid in Madrid, and Institut Français de la Mode, IFM Paris. The speakers’ viewpoints are reorganized and adopted. And the other part is from the specially invited scholars based on this publication. On the other hand, the academic research on jewellery seldom discusses the relationship between fashion and jewellery, and the role and value of jewellery and fashion from the perspective of contemporary design theories and methods, so it is very necessary to have such a academic based publication. The entire WoSoF Project, consisting of Exhibition, Symposium, Publication, all has been successfully carried out.

This book consists of five chapters. The first chapter discusses the role of contemporary design in the development of fashion luxury goods echoing the book title of "The Spirit of Luxury and Design". In Chapter 2 "Future Inspiration", thirteen articles discuss the thinking of fashion and jewellery from the angles of art, design, materials and culture. In Chapter 3 "Interdisciplinary", 4 articles will continue to discuss the impact of sustainable development and new technologies on the development of jewellery design. Although the curation of contemporary fashion and jewellery is nothing new in the practical field, the related research is still an emerging field, the two articles in Chapter 4 are discussed from the perspective of curating exhibitions. In Chapter 5, "The future is now", not only draws a successful conclusion to this book, but also draws a optimistic view of the future.
We hope that this book can help readers from different backgrounds to re-examine the exploration of fashion and jewellery as a specific theme and field, and give the development of fashion design research a new enlightening perspective and the possibility of innovation and development of the industry.


Contents and Contributors:
1. From Luxury to Contemporary Fashion Design, Jie Sun
2. Jewellery and Fashion: Their Intrinsic Bond through Art, Design and Savoir-faire.  Donatella Zappieri.
3. From Architecture to Fashion…. Designing it’s all about ideas! Guillermo García-Badell.
4. The Enduring Links between Jewellery and Fashion, from Craft to Design. Elizabeth Fischer.
5. IN TERRĀ MEDIĀ | The Hybrid Territory of Les Métissages. Nichka Marobin.
6. Fashion Artefact, Design as a Social Facilitator. Naomi Filmer.
7. Can Professional Jewellery Designers Using Consensual Assessment Technique (CAT) Achieve an Appropriate Level of Inter-rated Agreement When Judging a Specific Jewellery Design Creativity Task? Mala Siamptani.
8. SUSTAINABILITY THROUGH MATERIALS -- an Approach by Silent Goods. Volker Koch.
9. Contemporary Jewellery Design in South Korea. Yong-il Jeon.
10. Beyond Art through the Concept of Jewellery -- Contemporary Jewellery in Japan, its History, and Possibilities. Akio Seki.
11. Critical Approaches to Footwear Design Practise. Eelko Moorer.
12. Accessories and the Construction of Identities in Fashion: The Case of 19th Century France. Emilie Hammen.
13. Belaboring Dress: Literature of Wear and Tear. Paula Rabinowitz.
14. Accessories: their Ontological Function as Superfluous/Essential items of Clothing—with Some Instances of their Literary and Filmic Meanings. Cristina GIiorcelli.
15. The Body Common. Christine Lüdeke.
16. Lessons -- We Should Learn. Elizabeth Shaw.
17. Could Innovations such as Augmented Reality, the Internet of Things, and Artificial Intelligence Render the Fashion Industry More Sustainable? Katharina Sand.
18. Where Fashion, Jewellery and Technology Meet. Maarten Versteeg.
19. Post Digital Jewellery -- The Future Scenarios of Contemporary Jewelry Design. Chiara Scarpitti.
20. Research Methods and Strategies of Contemporary Design Curation -- Take the TRIPLE PARADE Biennale for Contemporary Jewellery as an Example. Jie Sun.
21. Fashion and Museography: The Space as an Ally. Héctor Navarro.
22. The Future is Now and the Making of Things. Elizabeth Fischer.


>> Chinese version:
Title:《 奢侈品设计之灵：当代时尚与首饰 》
Editors: 孙捷，伊丽莎白·菲舍尔【瑞】
Size: 17 × 24 cm , 312 页，平装
ISBN: 978-7-5608-9860-5
Language: Chinese
Publisher: Tongji University Press
Order: dushu.com/book/13869636/
 

About the author

Jie Sun is Professor of Design, Ph.D Supervisor, at the College of Design and Innovation (D&I), Tongji University in Shanghai; Deputy-Chairman at Art and Design Academic Committee, Head of New Center of Contemporary Jewellry and Fashion Culture (NoCC) in Tongji University; He has been awarded by the Ministry of Education of China as one of the National Distinguished Experts at 2015. He is also Chairman and Curator at TRIPLE PARADE International Biennial Organization Committee; Director of SxV Museum of Modern Arts in Qingdao (SV MoMA); Director at the Institute of Design and Creative Industries in Guangzhou (CDC). His research interesting in fashion, jewellery and related product design, but also Design-driven social innovation, he advocates that by adhering to the concept “Fashion & Design +” innovation and integration of culture, art, lifestyle, design, technology and business, the design should be understood within the context of contemporary and humanized experience, and sustainable development of regional consumption and industrial upgrading.
 


Elizabeth Fischer is Professor in charge of the Fashion, Jewellery and Accessories Design Department at the HEAD – Geneva University of Art and Design. She was responsible for opening the BA study program to industry and to jewelry related fields such as product and accessory design. She contributed to the launch of the MA study program and of the Chair in Watch design in 2014. Holder of an MA in art history specialized in the interpretation of dress, textiles and jewelry in painting, she has worked in education and with museums as a scientific collabo­rator and curator for over 25 years. She is member of the scien­tific committee of MuMode Swiss fashion Museum, in charge of defining its new cultural and scientific programme. (Yverdon-les-Bains). Her research at HEAD – Geneva explores the relationship of the contemporary body with accessories and dress as well as gender issues. She is scientific consultant on various other research projects at HEAD – Geneva.