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Schmuck Fair 2023

Fair  /  Collecting   Exhibiting   Curating   MunichJewelleryWeek2023  /  08 Mar 2023  -  12 Mar 2023
Published: 14.12.2022
Internationale Handwerkmesse Munich
Curator:
Caroline Broadhead
Management:
Wolfgang Lösche, Eva Sarnowski
.

© By the author. Read Klimt02.net Copyright.

Intro
From political statements to personal memories, beauty or wit: everything can be expressed with jewelry. Munich is considered the world capital of the international jewelry scene. At the heart of this reputation is the special show SCHMUCK at "Handwerk & Design". The upcoming SCHMUCK will take place from March 8 to 12, 2023 at the Munich trade fair grounds in Hall B1.
 

Artist list

Alejandra Agusti, Andrea Auer, Sofia Björkman, Bas Bouman, Sigurd Bronger, Beatrice Brovia, Kim Buck, Bifei Cao, Sebastien Carré, Lin Cheung, Paloma Cobos, Sam Tho Duong, Kanako Ebisawa, Susanne Elstner, Veronika Fabian, Geraldine Fenn, Eva Fernandez, Melanie Georgacopoulos, Lucie Gledhill, Gésine Hackenberg, Masako Hamaguchi, Jo Harrison-Hall, Kirsten Haydon, Cara Johnson, Jutta Kallfelz, Lauren Kalman, Jiro Kamata, Esther Knobel, Takashi Kojima, Luisa Kuschel, Jil Köhn, Matt Lambert, Kristiina Laurits, Monique Lecouna, Eric Loubser, Tamara Marbl Joka, Gabriela Marcos, Nanna Melland, Peleg Mercedes Matityahu, Maria Militsi, Neke Moa, Felicia Mülbaier, Hannah Norris, Shelley Norton, Liana Pattihis, Ruudt Peters, Lina Peterson, Annelies Planteijdt, Sarah Powell, Cecilia Richard, Jimena Rios, Mette Saabye, Jolynn Santiago, Pedro Sequeira, Sara Shahak, Catarina Silva, Dannielle Surgeon-Eustace, Timothy Information Limited, Lisa Walker, Norman Weber, Zixin Wei, Jiye Yun, Christoph Zellweger, Christoph Ziegler, Manon van Kouswijk, Felieke van der Leest
For over 60 years, the special show SCHMUCK at "Handwerk & Design" has been the most important show in contemporary artistic jewelry. Artists, gallery owners, collectors and jewelry lovers travel from all over the world to this "summit of goldsmiths", because every year, jewelry from the most diverse cultures, generations and artistic contexts come together here in a very confined space. A distillation of current developments in jewelry art: socially critical, personal, witty or poetic - but always refreshingly different!

This time, the special show was curated by the British artist Caroline Broadhead. Caroline Broadhead taught at Central Saint Martins College of Art and Design in London until 2018. In 2022, she herself was among the selected participants of SCHMUCK and won the Herbert Hofmann Prize, the "Oscar" among jewelry prizes, which is awarded every year at the end of "Handwerk & Design" in Munich. In 2023, Caroline Broadhead is now responsible for selecting the participants as curator. From 600 applicants, she selected 66 participants from 23 countries for the exhibition. Many of the designers will be exhibiting at SCHMUCK for the first time, the selection is very young. There are also clear accents in terms of content: The Corona pandemic, colonialism, and sustainability are just a few of the topics that the jewelry artists have recently addressed.

There's a lot of thought about what materials we should and shouldn't use, says curator Caroline Broadhead. But that's by no means done with a raised finger, she adds. The Sustainable Construction No. 3 by the Norwegian Sigurd Bronger, for example, is made from a used cardboard roll, but the theme is completely different: It is about the meaning of an empty box. What value do we attach to it when it serves no function? And what happens when the empty box is worn as jewelry? Doesn't it then have a function after all?

Exciting works of art can be created when different types of materials are mixed. In her necklace "Tesafilm and Jade," Chinese artist Zixin Wei has used two materials that could hardly be more different: On the one hand, a precious gemstone that has grown over millions of years; on the other, a mass-produced industrial consumer product. While the jade stone carries hundreds of millions of years of history, the adhesive strip clings to the dust and hair of the present. But in the necklace, the two are inseparable and each link takes full responsibility for its supporting function.
 
The Dutch artist Felieke van der Leest, who lives in Norway, has created a necklace on the theme of inner borders. Inner boundaries prevent people from doing what they would like to do. Inside a familiar circle you feel safe, outside things are scary. Felieke van der Leest represents the courage it takes to overcome one's boundaries through a lion. His name Henki refers to Henki Hauge Karlson, the first publicly known HIV-positive man in Norway. He fought all the way to the highest court to get his job back after being fired because of his HIV infection.

Within the special show SCHMUCK there is again a small extra exhibition at the upcoming fair. The recently deceased Italian jewelry artist Annamaria Zanella (1966-2022) will be honored as a Classic of Modernism. Annamaria Zanella is known for works that combine colorfulness and critical statements. Her brooch Finistreblu, for example, is reminiscent of a window, the center revealing a view, like glimpses of light from closed rooms out into nature and freedom. Wearing a window jewel becomes a way to let the viewer's gaze in and out while it tells its story. The story of these blue, red, orange window jewels is connected with the melancholy of the time we live in, with the sadness caused by the sight of the bombed buildings in Ukraine without windows, where everything speaks of destruction and pain. It is pure pain what is perceived from the windows of the many houses in Iran, where a theocratic regime denies women any freedom to dress freely or wear jewelry, to have an identity, as happened to Mahsa Amini.
 
In the tradition of Arte Povera, Annamaria Zanella worked mainly with simple materials such as plastic, broken glass, shells, the eyelets of old tin cans, sponges or nails: The artist then transforms these humble materials so that they appear magnificent. She soaked neoprene in such intense blue that it appears like precious lapis lazuli. The color blue played a very special role for Annamaria Zanella: Blue is the soul, hope, she once said.


Prizes and Awards:
Herbert-Hofmann-Prize,
at 5 p.m. on Saturday, March 11, 2023.
  • The prize commemorates Dr. Herbert Hofmann, the founder of the special show in 1959.
  • Three contributions will be awarded the Herbert Hofmann Prize.
  • Works will be acknowledged at the SCHMUCK-Catalogue of the following year (including photography and text).
  • Distinguished exhibitors receive a certificate and a stele (designed by Hermann Jünger).
Bavarian States Prize
  • Every exhibitor at the International Trade Fair can apply for the Bavarian States Prize.
  • The Bavarian States Prize is awarded to 10 contributions of applied art within all contributions of the International Trade Fair. The Bavarian States Prize is awarded 5.000 Euros, a gold medal, and a certificate.

More international jewelry art can be seen at the FRAME booths: Some of the world's most important jewelry galleries will come together here, including, for example, Marzee from Amsterdam, Platina from Stockholm and Galerie Rosemarie Jäger from Hochheim near Frankfurt.


Organisation and Funding:
Promoter: Gesellschaft für Handwerksmessen mbH.
Exhibition Patron: Benno und Therese Danner´sche Kunstgewerbestiftung München.
Conception and direction: Wolfgang Lösche, Handwerkskammer für München und Oberbayern.
Organisation: Eva Sarnowski, Handwerkskammer für München und Oberbayern.
Arrangements: Alexandra Bahlmann.

We are grateful to the Bavarian State Ministry of Commerce, Energy, and Technology for the support they have lent this special show, to the Danner Foundation for their sponsorship, and to the Association of Trades Fairs as the organizer of the Crafts and Trades Fair Munich.
 
Christoph Ziegler. Necklace: Memory I, 2022. Wood, wooden objects, plastic, rubber, lacquer.. 50 x 22 x 4.5 cm. Video Link: youtu.be/N2ic6j0UIDQ. Christoph Ziegler
Necklace: Memory I, 2022
Wood, wooden objects, plastic, rubber, lacquer.
50 x 22 x 4.5 cm
Video Link: youtu.be/N2ic6j0UIDQ
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Sigurd Bronger. Brooch: Sustainable Construction no.3, 2022. Gold-plated brass, steel, paint (inside), old card board tube.. 5 x 5 x 5.5 cm. Sigurd Bronger
Brooch: Sustainable Construction no.3, 2022
Gold-plated brass, steel, paint (inside), old card board tube.
5 x 5 x 5.5 cm
© By the author. Read Klimt02.net Copyright.
Sébastien Carré. Necklace: Organic Landscape 4, 2022. Beads, leather, cotton, silk, nylon and elastic thread. 11 x 9 x 2-3 cm. Photo by: Milo Lee. Sébastien Carré
Necklace: Organic Landscape 4, 2022
Beads, leather, cotton, silk, nylon and elastic thread
11 x 9 x 2-3 cm
Photo by: Milo Lee
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Veronika Fabian. Necklace: Once Upon a Time, 2021. Brass. 23 x 23 x 4 cm. Photo by: Veronika Fabian. Veronika Fabian
Necklace: Once Upon a Time, 2021
Brass
23 x 23 x 4 cm
Photo by: Veronika Fabian
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Lauren Kalman. Piece: Fourish, 2021. Copper. 17 x 12 x 10 cm. Photo by: Lauren Kalman. Gold-plated copper.. Lauren Kalman
Piece: Fourish, 2021
Copper
17 x 12 x 10 cm
Photo by: Lauren Kalman
Gold-plated copper.
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Nanna Melland. Ring: Ring of Ignorance, 2022. Tin.. 2.70 x 2.50 x 2.50 cm. Photo by: Morten Brun. Nanna Melland
Ring: Ring of Ignorance, 2022
Tin.
2.70 x 2.50 x 2.50 cm
Photo by: Morten Brun
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Hannah Norris. Neckpiece: Sin, 2022. Graphite. 50 x 50 cm. From series: Sin, Repent, Absolution. Hannah Norris
Neckpiece: Sin, 2022
Graphite
50 x 50 cm
From series: Sin, Repent, Absolution
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Jimena Rios. Bracelet: Self Portrait with Corals, 2022. Silver, 14kt gold, corals, glass beads, fabric.. 2 x 9.5 x 23 cm. Photo by: Federico Novelli. Jimena Rios
Bracelet: Self Portrait with Corals, 2022
Silver, 14kt gold, corals, glass beads, fabric.
2 x 9.5 x 23 cm
Photo by: Federico Novelli
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Felieke van der Leest. Necklace: Henki Van Oz, 2021. Textile, plastic animal, silver, glass beads, magnets.. 33 x 19 x 4.50 cm. Photo by: Eddo Hartmann. Felieke van der Leest
Necklace: Henki Van Oz, 2021
Textile, plastic animal, silver, glass beads, magnets.
33 x 19 x 4.50 cm
Photo by: Eddo Hartmann
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Lisa Walker. Pendant: It Started With A Mask Then Some Decoration Got Added, 2021. Fabric thread, acrylic paint, stuffing.. 20 x 14 x 8 cm. Lisa Walker
Pendant: It Started With A Mask Then Some Decoration Got Added, 2021
Fabric thread, acrylic paint, stuffing.
20 x 14 x 8 cm
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Norman Weber. Brooch: Juwel #4, 2021. Plastic, acrylic paint, stainless steel, silver.. 3.7 x 12.7 x 12.1 cm. Norman Weber
Brooch: Juwel #4, 2021
Plastic, acrylic paint, stainless steel, silver.
3.7 x 12.7 x 12.1 cm
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Zixin Wei. Necklace: Scotch Tape and Jade, 2020. Jade, scotch tape.. 40 x 3 x 3 cm. Zixin Wei
Necklace: Scotch Tape and Jade, 2020
Jade, scotch tape.
40 x 3 x 3 cm
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Annamaria Zanella. Brooch: Blue Window, 2021. Silver, wood, pure lapis pigment, gold, steel.. 6.50 x 5.80 x 2.50 cm. Photo by: Marco Furio Magliani. Annamaria Zanella
Brooch: Blue Window, 2021
Silver, wood, pure lapis pigment, gold, steel.
6.50 x 5.80 x 2.50 cm
Photo by: Marco Furio Magliani
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Manon van Kouswijk. Bracelet: Iaskedthependantdoyouwanttobe abroochordoyouthinkthebrooch preferstobecomeabracelet, 2022. Porcelain ceramic pencil, glaze.. 9 x 9.5 x 1.2 cm. Photo by: Fred Kroh. Manon van Kouswijk
Bracelet: Iaskedthependantdoyouwanttobe abroochordoyouthinkthebrooch preferstobecomeabracelet, 2022
Porcelain ceramic pencil, glaze.
9 x 9.5 x 1.2 cm
Photo by: Fred Kroh
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Sam Tho Duong. Neckpiece: 4 seasons. YellowBin, 2022. Plastic from recycle bin silver capsules.. 57 x 20 x 5 cm. Photo by: DuoSaTo. Sam Tho Duong
Neckpiece: 4 seasons. YellowBin, 2022
Plastic from recycle bin silver capsules.
57 x 20 x 5 cm
Photo by: DuoSaTo
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Geraldine Fenn. Brooch: Colonial Comeuppance I, 2021. Silver, found object, glass, glass trade beans, steel pin.. 7 x 5.5 x 1 cm. Photo by: Sarah de Pina. Geraldine Fenn
Brooch: Colonial Comeuppance I, 2021
Silver, found object, glass, glass trade beans, steel pin.
7 x 5.5 x 1 cm
Photo by: Sarah de Pina
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Mette Saabye. Necklace: Peasant’s flower, 2021. Linen, silk, iron, cotton, silver.  . 50 x 12 x 9 cm. Photo by: Dorte Krogh. Mette Saabye
Necklace: Peasant’s flower, 2021
Linen, silk, iron, cotton, silver.  
50 x 12 x 9 cm
Photo by: Dorte Krogh
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