Schmuck Fair 2024

Fair  /  MunichJewelleryWeek2024  /  28 Feb 2024  -  03 Mar 2024
Published: 24.01.2024
Schmuck Fair 2024.
Internationale Handwerkmesse Munich
Norman Weber
Barbara Schmidt, Eva Sarnowski

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Sewing needles and roll-on deodorant balls, human hair and artificial intelligence: anything goes in contemporary studio jewellery. The special SCHMUCK show at «Handwerk & Design» showcases the latest works by jewellery artists from all over the world. It is the most important special show for contemporary jewellery art worldwide.
The SCHMUCK will take place from 28 February to 3 March 2024 at the Fairground Munich in Hall B1.
>> Download the complete official Handwerk & Design 2024 Program including the Munich City Map & Metro Plan.

This year were received more than 600 applications and were selected 61 works by artists from 23 countries.

>> Download here the selected artist's list.

Once a year, Munich becomes a city of jewellery: artists, gallery owners, museum curators and collectors from all over the world travel to «Handwerk & Design» to find out about the latest trends in the world of jewellery at the special SCHMUCK show. What makes this exhibition so special is that no theme or motto is given. The most diverse pieces of jewellery of all generations, schools, cultures and continents from the most diverse materials and techniques rendezvous here – since 65 years! The impetus for the show came from art historian Herbert Hofmann back in 1959. Such continuity speaks for itself: today, SCHMUCK forms the core of Munich's reputation as a centre for contemporary jewellery art.

This year's special show was curated by Norman Weber.
Norman Weber is a jewellery artist and the artistic director of the vocational school for glass and jewellery in Neugablonz/Kaufbeuren. After his training as a goldsmith and silversmith at this school, he studied at the Munich Art Academy in the jewellery class under Hermann Jünger and Otto Künzli. For SCHMUCK 2024, he selected from more than 600 applications 61 works by artists from 23 countries. I was totally impressed by the incredible variety and creativity of the works submitted," he says. His selection for the exhibition reflects the broad spectrum of jewellery art.

From South America, for example, comes a brooch made from recycled roll-on deodorant balls. Chilean artist Yael Olave Munizaga takes the upcycling of existing materials so far that the origin of the material literally fades into the background: One of her brooches at first makes one think of a futuristic dune landscape. The star-shaped hole pattern on the shiny white surface are reminiscent of coral or the skeletons of sea urchins. Spheres in shades of orange bulge out from beneath the surface: this is where the "ego" lies hidden, colourful and unique. With her work, the artist refers to society's contradictory expectations of people: you are supposed to be perfect and unique, but at the same time you are always labelled and pigeonholed.
Completely different is the work of Hilde Dramstad from Norway. Her necklace pendants are sewn from fabric and broaches the issue of subliminal fears. The pendants are pistol shaped – the fabric finish is unsettling. A small fringed flag also depicts Jiminy Cricket, a Disney character representing Pinocchio's conscience who appeared for many years as the presenter of various Disney films. With her work, the artist questions the relevance of fairy tales and films: the stories allow us to experience emotions without putting ourselves in danger. But what meaning do experiences have if you can leave the situation at any time?
One of the most important sujets in jewellery is the question of self-expression and external image. Munich-based jewellery artist Takayoshi Terajima tackles this intimate topic by using the latest technology. Every day, he feeds an imaging AI with personal information about himself. His place of birth, height, eye colour and other details are all requested in his application for a residence permit in Germany. He then asks the AI for a portrait of the person described. Although he works with the same keywords every day, the AI generates a different image every day. Finally, the artist works a metal surface by hand and covers it with a pattern of small, teardrop-shaped indentations. In this way, he gives the piece his own signature and ultimately turns it into a genuine self-portrait.
These are but a few examples which show the extraordinarily wide spectrum of contemporary jewellery art. It was important to curator Norman Weber that his selection ultimately reflected the diversity of artistic approaches and also the artists‘ origins. Starting 28 February, SCHMUCK visitors can judge themselves how well he has achieved this.

One of the highlights of every SCHMUCK is the awarding of the Herbert Hofmann Prize. An expert jury selects this year's winners on-site from all the works exhibited at SCHMUCK. On Saturday, 2 March at 5 pm, the equivalent of the Oscars among the jewellery prizes will be announced and presented live at the fair.
Once again this year, there will be a small solo exhibition within the special SCHMUCK show. The jewellery artist Georg Dobler will be honoured as a "Modern Classic" in 2024. The artist, living in Halle an der Saale, was Professor of Jewellery and Objects at the University of Applied Sciences and Arts in Hildesheim from 2002 to 2017. Among other things, he is renowned for his blackened silver casts from nature’s materials, including large stag or rhinoceros beetles. The artist calls these "nature’s ready-made ". He also uses unusually large, polished stones. The oversizing serves his concept of „de-romanticisation “, as he considers jewellery that is simply beautiful simply boring: "It has always been important to me that beauty has a little sting".
With Georg Dobler and his special use of stones in jewellery, SCHMUCK complements the neighbouring EXEMPLA, where this year everything revolves around the theme of "stones". This is why Georg Dobler will not only be honoured with a solo exhibition as a "Modern Classic ", but he will also show in a "live workshop" how he creates his works with stones.
The special show TALENTE 2024 – Meister der Zukunft hosts young positions from the international jewellery scene. Being entirely dedicated to up-and-coming artists this curated special show brings together all trades, including contemporary jewellery The focus lies on what particularly drives young artists today: sustainability and the search for new materials.
At the FRAME stands even more international jewellery art awaits the visitors: Some of the world's most important jewellery galleries will convene here, including Marzee from Amsterdam, Galerie Noel Guyomarc'h from Montréal, Gallery O from Seoul and Galerie Rosemarie Jäger from Hochheim near Frankfurt.
Parallel to SCHMUCK and the other special shows at «Handwerk & Design», the "Munich Jewellery Days" will take place throughout the city in various locations offering dozens of other exhibitions, performances and lectures. The SCHMUCK info point in the Ruffinihaus at Rindermarkt 10 in the heart of the Munich will provide information about the extensive programme. The info point opens 20 February 2024.
The special show SCHMUCK is sponsored by the Munich-based foundation for the applied arts Benno and Therese Danner’sche Kunstgewerbestiftung. The exhibition is also funded by the Bavarian Ministry of Economic Affairs, Regional Development and Energy.

Prizes and Awards:
(Saturday, 2nd March, 5 p.m)
  • The prize commemorates Dr. Herbert Hofmann, the founder of the special show in 1959.
  • Three contributions will be awarded the Herbert Hofmann Prize.
  • Works will be acknowledged at the SCHMUCK-Catalogue of the following year (including photography and text).
  • Distinguished exhibitors receive a certificate and a stele (designed by Hermann Jünger).
Bavarian States Prize (Friday, 1st March, 2 p.m)
  • Every exhibitor at the International Trade Fair can apply for the Bavarian States Prize.
  • The Bavarian States Prize is awarded to 10 contributions of applied art within all contributions of the International Trade Fair. The Bavarian States Prize is awarded 5.000 Euros, a gold medal, and a certificate.

Organisation and Funding:
Promoter: Gesellschaft für Handwerksmessen mbH.
Exhibition Patron: Benno und Therese Danner´sche Kunstgewerbestiftung München.
Conception and direction: Barbara Schmidt, Handwerkskammer für München und Oberbayern.
Organisation: Eva Sarnowski, Handwerkskammer für München und Oberbayern.
Arrangements: Alexandra Bahlmann.

We are grateful to the Bavarian State Ministry of Commerce, Energy, and Technology for the support they have lent this special show, to the Danner Foundation for their sponsorship, and to the Association of Trades Fairs as the organizer of the Crafts and Trades Fair Munich.

Hilde Dramstad. Necklace: Charms of Fear, 2022. Embroidered textile. Photo by: Hilde Dramstad. Hilde Dramstad
Necklace: Charms of Fear, 2022
Embroidered textile
Photo by: Hilde Dramstad
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Lital Mendel. Necklace: My Family Album, 2022. Miyuki beads, nylon cord, polymer, cardboard, cotton cord, hinges, screws. 58 x 15 x 1 cm. Photo by: Moran Shemi. Lital Mendel
Necklace: My Family Album, 2022
Miyuki beads, nylon cord, polymer, cardboard, cotton cord, hinges, screws
58 x 15 x 1 cm
Photo by: Moran Shemi
© By the author. Read Copyright.
Yael Olave. Brooch: Duno V, 2023. Recycled balls from deodorant rollers, bio-resin, pigments, acrylic, silver, stainless steel, LED. 9.2 x 13.6 x 2.5 cm. Photo by: Yael Olave. Yael Olave
Brooch: Duno V, 2023
Recycled balls from deodorant rollers, bio-resin, pigments, acrylic, silver, stainless steel, LED
9.2 x 13.6 x 2.5 cm
Photo by: Yael Olave
© By the author. Read Copyright.
Iris Nieuwenburg. Brooch: Lumière, 2023. Silver, photo, dibond, crystal dust, moonstone. 8.6 x 6.3 x 2.1 cm. Photo by: Iris Nieuwenburg. Iris Nieuwenburg
Brooch: Lumière, 2023
Silver, photo, dibond, crystal dust, moonstone
8.6 x 6.3 x 2.1 cm
Photo by: Iris Nieuwenburg
© By the author. Read Copyright.
Anna Talbot. Necklace: Sloppy Seconds n.1, 2023. Recycled tea and cookie tin, scraps, wool and silk ribbon. 11 x 11 x 5 cm. Photo by: Anna Talbot. Anna Talbot
Necklace: Sloppy Seconds n.1, 2023
Recycled tea and cookie tin, scraps, wool and silk ribbon
11 x 11 x 5 cm
Photo by: Anna Talbot
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Takayoshi Terajima. Brooch: Portrait from 21.02.2023, 2023. Aluminum composite panel, UV direct print, KI photo, stainless steel. 9 x 6.5 x 1 cm. Photo by: Takayoshi Terajima. Takayoshi Terajima
Brooch: Portrait from 21.02.2023, 2023
Aluminum composite panel, UV direct print, KI photo, stainless steel
9 x 6.5 x 1 cm
Photo by: Takayoshi Terajima
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María Ignacia Walker. Brooch: What dies next to me, 2022. Shibuichi, steel, gold, paper embroidered with hair. 9 x 9 x 0.8 cm. Photo by: Simón Contreras. María Ignacia Walker
Brooch: What dies next to me, 2022
Shibuichi, steel, gold, paper embroidered with hair
9 x 9 x 0.8 cm
Photo by: Simón Contreras
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Arek Wolski. Brooch: Forest, 2022. Lacquered stainless steel. 12 x 15 cm. Photo by: Arek Wolski. Arek Wolski
Brooch: Forest, 2022
Lacquered stainless steel
12 x 15 cm
Photo by: Arek Wolski
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Jun Jin Wu. Pendant: Detachable Ellipsoid, 2022. Chalcedonia, jade, cord. 4 x 2 x 2 cm. Photo by: Ni Chao. Jun Jin Wu
Pendant: Detachable Ellipsoid, 2022
Chalcedonia, jade, cord
4 x 2 x 2 cm
Photo by: Ni Chao
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Putte Helene Dal. Neckpiece: Seed carrier, 2023. Found Object, Wood, Leather. 4.30 x 4.50 x 13. Photo by: Mats Linder. Putte Helene Dal
Neckpiece: Seed carrier, 2023
Found Object, Wood, Leather
4.30 x 4.50 x 13
Photo by: Mats Linder
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Empar Juanes Sanchis. Brooch: Don't dare, 2021. Basalt, stainless steal. 4.70 x 9.20. Empar Juanes Sanchis
Brooch: Don't dare, 2021
Basalt, stainless steal
4.70 x 9.20
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Silvie Altschuler. Brooch: Fakata, 2023. metal, found silicone and polymer clay.. 6 x 6.x 4 cm. Photo by: Anthony McLean. Silvie Altschuler
Brooch: Fakata, 2023
metal, found silicone and polymer clay.
6 x 6.x 4 cm
Photo by: Anthony McLean
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Miriam Arentz. Brooch: Meadow, 2023. Amber, silver, Fine silver and Enamel. . 6.6 x 5.5 x 0.5 cm. From series: Traces in Time. Miriam Arentz
Brooch: Meadow, 2023
Amber, silver, Fine silver and Enamel. 
6.6 x 5.5 x 0.5 cm
From series: Traces in Time
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