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David Watkins

Jeweller
Published: 03.04.2025

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David Watkins’ jewellery is defined by experimentation, precision, and a deep engagement with technology. His work balances rhythm, form, and structure while maintaining an essential connection to the body.
David Watkins. David Watkins
Photo by Tom Grotta


Bio

David Watkins, born in 1940, is a British artist renowned for his pioneering work in contemporary jewellery. Initially recognised as a jazz pianist and sculptor, he brought a dynamic blend of structure and improvisation to his jewellery practice.

Born in Wolverhampton, Watkins studied Fine Art at the University of Reading, where he met his lifelong partner, Wendy Ramshaw. Together, they made an early impact on jewellery design with Optik Art Jewellery and Flat-pack paper jewellery in the 1960s. His fascination with film technology led him to work as a special effects maker for 2001: A Space Odyssey, an experience that profoundly influenced his artistic vision.

As a pioneer in computer-aided jewellery design, he pushed the boundaries of materials, working with gold, titanium, acrylic, and neoprene. His creations range from minimalist compositions to bold, sculptural forms that redefine jewellery as wearable art. In 2012, he designed the medals for the London Olympic Games, further cementing his legacy in design. ​He was a Professor of Goldsmithing, Silversmithing, Metalwork and Jewellery at the Royal College of Art from 1984 to 2007.

Watkins’ work has been exhibited internationally, including a retrospective at the Victoria & Albert Museum in 2010. His pieces are in major collections, such as the Metropolitan Museum of Art in New York and the National Museum of Modern Art in Tokyo. In 2006, the British Library recorded an oral history interview with him for its Crafts Lives collection, and in 2009, Graham Hughes published a joint biography of Watkins and Ramshaw.

Through decades of innovation, Watkins has quietly shaped contemporary jewellery, expanding its possibilities while maintaining a deep respect for craftsmanship.
 

Statement

David Watkins’ jewellery is defined by experimentation, precision, and a deep engagement with technology. Embracing materials from paper and acrylic to industrial metals and gold, his work balances rhythm, form, and structure while maintaining an essential connection to the body. As a pioneer in computer-aided design since the 1970s, he continually pushed the boundaries of jewellery-making, integrating laser technology and industrial techniques.
When he talks about his approach, David says: My intention is to be psychologically liberating. To wear my jewels is a contrived and conscious act, like singing compared to speech, or dancing compared to walking.
 

Events      View / hide events

2024:
2022:
Exhibition  22 Jan 2022 - 12 Mar 2022  Rings ! at Houston.
2021:
Exhibition  05 Jun 2021 - 17 Jul 2021  Rings !.
2017:
Exhibition  17 Nov 2017 - 28 May 2018  Jewelry of Ideas: Gifts from the Susan Grant Lewin Collection..
2013:
Exhibition  07 Dec 2013 - 31 Jan 2014  Objects of Status, Power & Adornment Part II.
Exhibition  15 Jun 2013 - 06 Oct 2013  Salute to Pinton.
2012:
Exhibition  04 May 2012 - 05 Aug 2012  The Schullin Collection.
2011:
Exhibition  13 Sep 2011 - 12 Nov 2011  Objects of Status, Power and Adornment.
2009:
Exhibition  24 Jul 2009 - 18 Oct 2009  David Watkins: A Retrospective.
2008:
Exhibition  27 Nov 2008 - 27 Mar 2009  David Watkins: Artist in Jewellery.
2006:
Exhibition  17 Nov 2006 - 23 Dec 2006  Plastic. Contemporary gold.
Exhibition  22 Sep 2006 - 22 Oct 2006  Preziosa 2006: No-Body Decoration.
Exhibition  05 Apr 2006 - 10 Apr 2006  Minimal Art.
2005:
Exhibition  18 Nov 2005 - 22 Dec 2005  Minimal Art at Studio GR-20.
2003:
Exhibition  11 Nov 2003 - 24 Dec 2003  Encounters.

Publications      View / hide publications

Book:  The Fascination of Jewellery. 7000 Years of Jewellery at the MAKK. Arnoldsche Art Publishers:  Stuttgart,  2024
Book:  1990s Jewellery. The Hans Schullin Collection. Beer, SophieArnoldsche Art Publishers:  Stuttgart,  2017
Book:  David Watkins, Artist in Jewellery. Chadour-Sampson, Beatriz; Falk, FritzArnoldsche Art Publishers:  Stuttgart,  2008
Book:  David Watkins encounters. Sd-edicions-Hipòtesi joies:  Barcelona,  2004
Book:  The Best in Contemporary Jewellery. Watkins, DavidRotoVision:  Hove,