Netherlands Pavilion: On the Open Waters at the Puyuan International Contemporary Jewellery Art and Design Biennial

中文版 - Chinese version      

Artist list

Yotam Bahat, Ela Bauer, Julia Boix Vives, Liesbet Bussche, Paul Derrez, Benedikt Fischer, Karel Haans, Gésine Hackenberg, Hartog & Henneman, Maria Hees, Herman Hermsen, Idiots, Koen Jacobs, Jeannette Jansen, Daniel Jirkovskyi, Beppe Kessler, Jeannette Knigge, Triin Kukk, Erik Lijzenga, Chequita Nahar, Evert Nijland, Ted Noten, Noon Passama, Ruudt Peters, Annelies Planteydt, Philip Sajet, Lucy Sarneel, Robert Smit, Julia Walter, Sophia Zobel, Rudy de Gruyl, Morgane de Klerk, Lam de Wolf, Françoise van den Bosch

As a person who moved to the Netherlands a few years ago, it's not a big surprise to me that contemporary jewelry evolved and flourished precisely here. When I walk through the streets of Amsterdam, a land that was reclaimed from a swampy area, built above a body of water, and here, across my balcony, I can just literally jump inside the canal and sail into the ocean, to excavate new horizons.

The doors into the sea and the water high-ways which is in abundance on the door steps of the Netherlands coast line and decorate in-land spaces, always been an important element to the Dutch culture as a membrane to the outside world: in the Middle Ages the Dutch sailed across the rivers to trade with other countries, in the 17th century it led them on colonial voyages to the East and West which later became known as the Dutch “Golden Age” – a term which hides in itself the lives and resources it costed.

But the same waters also opened a door to goods, people and their cultures, that in return shaped the social-political and cultural rhizome of Dutch society today that is multi-cultural, liberal and diverse, and proudly decorates our life here.

Indoors inside the Dutch space, the same liberal identity led designers and artists in thepost-war Netherlands to suggest new methods for life, after they witnessed the major failure that the previous generations caused. This rebellious movement of artisans vastly moved away from characteristics they inherit, and also in the jewelry sphere the same MICROSTRAIN happened: at the end of the 60’ Dutch pioneers in jewellery field such as Gijs Bakker and Emmy van Leersum, and later at the beginning of the 70’ the ‘De Bond van Oproerige Edelsmeden’ (Union of Rebellious Goldsmiths), resigned from conventional jewellery escola, and re-defined the possibilities for jewellery, built the infrastructure for what we can call today Dutch jewellery: liberation from material & shape traditions, high valuation of expression & conceptual manifestation, emphasising innovative craft and stay conscious on the zeitgeist \ tijdsgeest.

With that in mind, I have to mention institutions such as Galerie Ra, Galerie Louise Smit, Galerie Marzee, among many others, which in the early stage of that weird jewellery voices accommodated and embraced those experiments, and together with the artists, created a movement. The openness of the Dutch jewelry scene was and remains an important feature in the identity of that movement. Marzee, for example, has hosted an annual International Graduate Show for almost 40 years. This show gives a stage to the most prominent jewellery graduates from academies worldwide, annually showcasing the voices of ‘new’ jewelers, and has served as a door for many generations of jewelry makers to enter the Dutch jewelry hub and connect the Dutch jewelry scene to other jewelry spaces.

The gates, which were opened by giants through the years, brought in countless numbers of initiatives and artists that looked up to the Dutch jewellery movement as the hub/space for their ideas, which can be inhabited here and made it here- their home. Today, when you look at the artists who are presented in the Dutch pavilion, it is hard to say that there is such a thing as “Dutch jewellery”, it has become a loose term. I believe it is a nation-less definition- we are a group of makers which are bound together with shared collective values/principles: the shared strive of reaching new horizons, moving and innovating, embracing and celebrating the voices of others, valuing self-expression, and constantly reflecting and acting upon our life.

/ Curator: Yotam Bahat

Assist Curator: Astrid Ubbink

Executive Committee: 
Biennale President: Chen Xianghong
Supervising Producer: Chen Yu
Chief Curator: Chen Youtong
Executive Producer: Yao Jie
Academic Director: Sun Jie
Art Director: Cao Xingyun
Project Director: Shi Chong, Liu Yunling, Shi Qi

Host Organization: 
Puyuan Fashion Resort

Organization Institutes: 
- Dingdu Cultural Foundation
- JCC International Contemporary Center
- TRIPLE PARADE


About Puyuan Fashion Resort

Puyuan Fashion Resort is the “twin ancient town” to Wuzhen, created by the same visionary planning and design team. While Wuzhen celebrates culture, Puyuan embraces fashion. The two sit side by side, complementing each other in theme, sharing resources yet thriving independently.

As China’s largest wool sweater market and knitwear hub, Puyuan Fashion Resort redefines fashion beyond clothing, curating a lifestyle of quality and aesthetics. It is designed as a dynamic ecosystem where design, showcase, trade, retail, and experience come together—making it not only a fashion industry cluster but also a high-end travel destination.

Drawing from the waterways and landscapes of Jiangnan, the town blends Tang and Song architectural influences with an imposing grandeur that sets it apart from traditional ancient towns. True to its identity as “China’s Fashion Ancient Town,” Puyuan is constantly innovating and breaking boundaries.

Since its grand opening in 2023, Puyuan Fashion Resort has become a stage for trend-setting events: the Douyin Creators Conference, GQ Men of the Year Gala, Puyuan Fashion Week, Figaro Music Party, Asia Wedding Style 2024, and the China showcase of New York Fashion Week · New Discoveries. It has also been featured in hit shows such as Everybody Stand By, Go Fighting!, Cats in the Box, and The Legend of Shen Li.

With every collaboration and cultural crossover, Puyuan Fashion Resort is accelerating its growth, proving itself as a bold fusion of tradition and fashion—and a new landmark on the global style map.