Donald Friedlich

Published: 11.01.2024


For many years, my work has highlighted qualities unique to jewelry as a medium, particularly the fact that jewelry, when worn, is viewed in motion. My Lumina Series brooches and necklaces comment on this movement by appearing to shift dramatically in color when viewed at different angles.
The pieces also play with qualities inherent to both glass and polished gems such as the color changes of an alexandrite or chatoyance of a star sapphire. Even in modest ambient light, they sparkle and appear lit from within. Most of these designs are composed of two layers of glass. The back one reflects a color and the front one is simultaneously reflective and translucent. Many different colors result from the optical interface of the layers, but usually two colors dominate. This luminescence is due to thin coatings of vaporized quartz and metallic oxides bonded to the surface of the glass in a vacuum chamber, a process originally developed by the aerospace industry. Regrettably, these dynamic optical effects at the center of my current work are impossible to fully convey in a single still photograph (see the Lumina Series page of my website, for videos). Accordingly, my images show two or four different views of the same design shot from different angles to demonstrate the way they transform with movement.
While these works are volumetric, I’ve fabricated them hollow, so they are light and easily wearable. The glass has been shaped in a kiln and then carefully ground and shaped with diamond abrasives. Finally, they’re assembled with the use of advanced UV cured adhesives.

While there is a great deal of technical design in my Lumina Series jewelry, this work also captures my artistic inspirations. They evoke sunlight reflected by the moon and, at times, diffused by fog or cloud cover and speak to the influence the color field paintings of Mark Rothko and the light sculptures of James Turrell and Dan Flavin have had on me.

CV      View / hide description

Events      View / hide events

Exhibition  28 Feb 2024 - 03 Mar 2024  Be Dazzled! at Munich Jewellery Week 2024.
Exhibition  23 Jun 2020 - 12 Jul 2020  Friedrich Becker Prize 2020 Exhibition.
Award giving  23 Jun 2020 - 23 Jun 2020  Friedrich Becker Prize 2020 Winner.
Exhibition  05 Jun 2020 - 10 Jul 2020  Site Effects: Jewelry on both sides of the Atlantic in Baltimore.
Exhibition  17 Jan 2020 - 29 Feb 2020  Site Effects: Jewelry on both sides of the Atlantic.
Exhibition  18 Oct 2019 - 28 Oct 2019  Beijing International Jewelry Art Exhibition 2019.
Exhibition  25 Jun 2019 - 16 Jul 2019  Arm Candy.
Exhibition  22 Feb 2019 - 22 Mar 2019  Glass Miniatures 2019.
Exhibition  19 Oct 2018 - 06 Jan 2019  SNAG at Triple Parade in Shanghai 2018.
Exhibition  17 Nov 2017 - 28 May 2018  Jewelry of Ideas: Gifts from the Susan Grant Lewin Collection..
Workshop  25 Jun 2017 - 07 Jul 2017  Industrial Resources for the Studio Artist by Donald Friedlich.
Exhibition  04 May 2016 - 19 Jun 2016  In Glass by Donald Friedlich.
Fair  24 Feb 2016 - 01 Mar 2016  Schmuck 2016.

Publications      View / hide publications

Book:  New Brooches: 400+ Contemporary Jewellery Designs. Estrada, NicolasPromopress:  Barcelona,  2018